From Here to Somewhere Else

Landed at Tunis-Carthage international. Perfect weather. Our first few days, we will be in the city of Hamammet, Tunisia's first tourist town! Founded in the first century, it became a Roman city in the 2nd century. The city walls were built in the 13th century, the Medina(old town) in the 15th century. Which was just in time as the Spanish were looking for a nicely renovated, small city to take over. So, in 1601, 300 Spanish conquered the village taking over 700 prisoners, mostly women and children as the men fled. Well let me tell you these men are back and they are all in sales.

Yasmine Hamammet is the area where our hotel is situated surrounded by small shops in a made for tourists Medina. Not the 15th century one. The one that houses the Tunisian Sales machine. Remember, we just checked into our hotel and we have the green wristband to prove it (meaning our meals are included). Walking down the narrow shopping streets, we are approached. "HAALOW(hello), remember me, we met at your hotel. I served you a drink, come and see my family's shop". "Non merci", we say. "Please just look, no pressure" he says as he spreads his ample arms out ,inviting us in while completely blocking our path. I played hockey, I throw a quick head fake to the right and blow by him on the left with Johanne in tow. Not to be deterred, he says " I will be serving your breakfast tomorrow you can come see the store after,OK?

Next shop, this time, only one arm gently directing us to his family shop, he says the same line ....working at the hotel....!. As we approach he does the shuffle step, angling us toward the inevitable intersection at the entrance to his shop. This time I toe drag, and he slides right by. Made it.

The assault continued throughout the visit. It is part of the culture here so not really that big of a deal. We continue on to explore the marina and walked the boardwalk along the sea, arriving back to the hotel just in time for the manager happy hour. The lobby converted into one big lounge. All the table's covered with tapas and drinks. Every drink that the bar can make was on display. We are invited to sample. Which we do, of course...they don't have to pressure us for that!.

After a good night's sleep, we are off to downtown Hamammet via the bus. Riding the local bus is a great way to get a flavor for the people. The bus stop is close by and the schedule is fairly easy to understand. The 120 arrives close to on time. We proceed to the front, whereby the driver raising his arm and with a jerking motion using his extended thumb as a pointer says " ici". The bus is one of those double length versions with an accordion joint in the middle. Once on board, there is a group of us, huddled in line, to pay. Each bus has a driver and a cashier, which is great as it allows us to ask the cashier when to get off for the Medina. To which he replies " I will tell you". We sit and enjoy the ride. Several times during the 20 minutes trip, we see young men relinquish their seats to women, without any prompting. Very nice!.

The town is not, at first glance, picturesque. It has layers of completion. Some buildings are clay brick, like unfinished pottery, others stand bright white and proud. Most have the weathered face of an old man, strong but worn. There is a small market on the street, mostly plants and pottery. We stop at a stall where the woman is selling finely polished pumis stones that have been pickled in Jasmine or vanilla. I move in to take a picture, I'm focused, this is going to be a great shot. Just as I press the shutter, my shirt catches on fire! Crap! The shop had incense burning on a table which I missed due to the powerful effects of the Jasmine. It is an aphrodisiac. I manage to squash the flames before it gets too carried away. Johanne is laughing too hard to help.