Mouries Provence

Golf Club de Servanes, in the heart of Provence. Surrounded by mountains, olive trees and vineyards.  Sounds perfect and it was.  Built in 1989, the course is part of a group that has hotel and golf course operations throughout Europe.  We are greeted with proper French politeness...... a closed security gate.   I mean that as a compliment.   Golf is a sport for the rich in Europe.  The gate, while designed for security, is also a status symbol.  Our course is private, exclusive and only to be entered by those who are worthy.   The first thing you must know about golf in France is you must follow the rules.  The R&A rules of golf, right down to proof of proficiency aka.... a handicap.  A letter from your home pro verifying your character,  a passport, credit reference, university diploma, driver;s licence and at least three years of tax returns. We don't have any of these things.  We do however, have a seasoned Tour Leader with an Exotic Tours business card.  Check-in went off without a hitch.  The clubhouse and hotel is below.  Provence themed to be sure.

The course starts off gently with a very short par 4.  Distinctly uphill, the second is a medium length par 3, also up hill.  The third is a medium length par 4 also up hill.  I tell you this because after the 3rd hole the course is relatively flat until the 16th hole.  How smart to put the majority of the hard exercise early in the round so you don't run out of energy for the end of the round.  The course was a good layout.  A nice mix of trees, water and sand.  The conditioning is typical European, not as manicured as we are used to in North America, but certainly at an acceptable level.  Johanne played her usual 104, she could have broken the magical 100 if she didn't become results oriented over the last few hole.  She added up her score and knowing what she needed to score for the remaining holes became the kiss of death.  Just play and add it up at the end.  You will be surprised how well you will do.  I posted 77 with a Bogey, double finish.  Maybe I need to take my own advice.

After golf we had planned to drive a short distance to the Camargue.  The Chateaux d'Avignon is having a concert and acrobatic show.  Sitting in the shadow of the castle and being entertained sounds like a perfect way to finish off the day.

The Camargue is a delta.  Surrounded by the Grand Rhone and the Petit Rhone rivers and the Mediterranean.  Famous for it's feral white horses, it is also a tremendous habitat for birds.   The production of sea salt has always been a large part of its history, dating back to pre-historic man right through to today.  The Camargue is also home to the raising of fighting bulls for export to Spain.  The area is constantly changing due to the amount of mud dragged in from the Rhone river.  The land continues to move out into the Mediterranean as mud deposits get pushed into the marshland.  The best example of how it has moved is the the town of Aigues Mortes, originally build as a port town, it is now found 5 kms inland from the sea.  Over the years, man has built dykes and overflow systems to slow the movement down.  However flooding still remains a problem.  All this wetland has one very difficult result...some of the most ferocious mosquitoes in the world.  They might even give Manitoba a run for their money.  Thankfully, today no pests are around.

 We went for a nice tour of the Chateaux before the show.  The owner of this Chateaux was way ahead of the curve in terms of running water, electricity and overall hygiene for his staff.  The home had many of these capabilities a full 30 years before the rest of the Camargue started to have access.  Electricity was one of those luxuries found on the estate.  Today we have a little acrobatic show in the park just off the West side of the estate.

 These two characters were the comic relief for the talent.  They had a trained chicken that they used during the performance.  It would play dead.  Very funny.  Everything was going well until the chicken stopped performing and tried to run away.  At that moment, a very energetic little Yorkshire terrier took off after the chicken.  It was something to behold, the chick bobbing and weaving between the seated audience with the dog in hot pursuit.  The chicken seemed to have the upper hand, running toward the open field, the dog turned on the afterburners, it wasn't pretty.  The chicken owner chasing the chicken, the dog owner chasing the dog.  Everyone caught their target, sadly the dog got his first.  Thankfully, the chicken went back to acting, playing dead...the dog lost interest.  The performance was over at that point.  I don't think the chicken was coming out for the second act.

Cirque du Soleil style spinning.

 The dog chase over, everyone took their chair to the back of the chateaux for the entertainment.  A duet that performed folks songs from the Camargue.  Kind of sounded like French country music.  They were very talented. it was quite something to be sitting on the doorstep of an 18th century castle listening to great music on a beautiful summer day.

   Hard to beat!

Tomorrow, we have a little reunion with our hosts Michel and Cathy and their 2 lovely daughters (all returning from our house in Palm Springs ) along with their neighbours Frederic and Florence, who we got to know during our stay. We prepared an impromtu dinner before our departure for Bordeaux the next day.  It has been an amazing experience.  We love Provence!

Be Well

Sante

 Gordes, Provence

The road to Gordes takes us through many pretty little villages.  Most of which would never be listed in a tourist guide.  They have the usual offerings, butcher, baker, pharmacy, bistros.  All for the local's enjoyment.  One such village had a Musee de La Lavande (Lavender Museum).  The town is called Coustellet, which sits within Provence in the region of Luberon.

 The Museum provides a rich history of Lavender farming.  The thing I remember most regarding our visit here was the thick, sweet scent of Lavender.  It was so rich that it permeates your skin.  I can still smell it today, it is not unpleasant just singular.

The worker above is demonstrating the distillation of Lavender.  It takes quite a stack of the stuff to make a litle liquid.  A quick and interesting stop.  All that fragrance made us thirsty.  That is never a problem in France.  Just 5-10 minutes into the Luberon we spot a vineyard, "Open for tastings" says the sign under the "Domaine Des Peyre" Logo..  Excellent timing.  

Our young and very knowledgeable host walked us through the award winning Rose followed by the whites and reds.  The former two better then the red.  We must have tasted 6 different crus....in France, most wineries do not charge for tasting...the few that were, are still very affordable. What a way to travel....always a wine tasting in every area that we visit....we are blessed! The site for the tasting at le Domaine des Peyres was very nice and getting nicer.  They were in the final stages of opening the hotel on site.  We were offered a tour of the rooms and the facilities to be built.  Each room kept the old French farmhouse style in mind while offering lavish modern amenities.  This will be quite the place when it is all finished! The owner is a lady who used to run the Gault Millaud Guide organisation...she knows what it takes! They have also built a commercial kitchen for cooking  classes that will be part of the guest experience.

An interesting place, we will surely check back with them next time we are in the area to see the finished product.  We got back on the road to Gordes.   The picture below is what we saw.  Impressive!

Above is the view we enjoyed while we had a picnic on the bench below.  Gordes is a great village for a day's visit.  Lots of artists and restaurants and a little bit of history. Mostly, people go for the views.

On the way back, we stopped at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.  In the valley below Gordes, this village has a beautiful river front location with natural spring waterfall, the fifth largest in France.  The river powered a paper mill in the past.  Today, the mill is used for more artistic purposes.   You can take a class in paper making..  The resulting paper is then used by the local artists as their canvas.  

The ruins of  Chateaux Vacluse look down upon the village from the cliffs above.  Getting up there must have been a real challenge back in the days.

This place was interesting.  The containers above were like bulk spices.  Except these liquids were vinegar's, oils, liquors, ciders...pretty much anything in liquid form was for sale.

During the day, the narrow street to access the main square is closed to traffic. In order to get in, you must park along the road and walk about 2km.  "Timing is everything" they say, we arrived late in the day just as the city worker was removing the barriere, re-opening the street.  We drove right in getting a front row parking spot, next to the centre.  It made our visit much more convenient.  OK we are lazy, I know you are thinking it so I am just going to get it off the table.  Guilty as charged.

After a nice visit, we headed west towards home.  The drive would be about an hour, which coincided nicely with dinner time.  We had spied a Pizza parlor that was always packed to the rafters in Maussane.  Since it was on the way home, we thought it might be fun to try it.  The restaurant's picture is below.  The seating is along the right side of the shop.  There are menus in 8 different languages hung outside the main door.  If you are lucky enough to find a table, grab it right away.  Pizza Brun fills up and stays full from open to close.  The menu has about 15 different choices, all interesting with lots of unique local ingredients.  The fun part is ordering.  You enter the shop, it's cozy.  There are two owners (husband and wife) behind the counter.  You shout out your order and a name.  The wife, who speaks English,  gives you a time, at which point you proceed to the cooler to choose your beverage.  I take a bottle of the house Rose and two glasses.  Holding them up for the wife/owner to see, I am out the door to the table that Johanne is preciously guarding. This process took all of 2 minutes.  There were 4 others doing the same thing at the same time.  Still it worked very nicely.  20 minutes later the wife/owner leans out the window, calling my name.  I enter the shop, grab the pizza, offering payment at the same time..  She says, "too busy, pay later..  Go Eat".

It was delicious, light thin crust and perfectly cooked ham, artichokes, olives, grilled chicken with a goat cheese and pesto sauce.  We chatted with some locals and enjoyed the night. The meal and the conversations were so engaging that we almost forgot to pay.  After bidding our dinner companions adieu, we started to head toward the street to leave. Thankfully, we remembered before it looked like something else was about to take place. Re-entering the shop ,we are greeted by the wife.  L'addition s'il vous plait"  I annnouce in my best french...even Johanne was impressed with my delivery.   The wife shouts what we had and in a heartbeat, the husband, without any help from a calculator, provides the customer (us in this case) with the verbal bill..... "Pay now" the wife says!   Our bill was easy only two  items..... the next customer has 15 items..... BAM, same drill, same result.  They've been doing this for years making it look easy but it is still impressive to all of us waiting to pay.....imagine the mental gymnastic this man goes through all day long! Amazing!

Tomorrow is a golf day followed by an outdoor concert at a Chateaux in the Camargues.

Be Well

Sante

Maussane, Provence.

Here come the bulls.  In the little village of Maussane, in fact in many of the villages and towns throughout this part of Provence, chasing a bull down the main street while crowds gather to watch, is a perfectly natural thing to do.  The Feria in August celebrates the roots of cowboys of the Camargue. There are many Feria type celebrations throughout the year, this one is in honour of the bull.  Of course some of the honouree's will end up as the "special of the day" in the restaurant, but not today.

The Feria happens over several days, everything gets started with the kids parading through main street on their white Camargue horses.  The Camargue is famous for the wild white horses that populate the region.   The streets are lined with proud parents, grand parents etc.  The joy on their faces is clearly evident as the young cowboys trot by.   

After the kids, the main event takes shape.  First the street is secured, metal fences checked and the local police close off the area.  Most people have found a viewing spot behind the metal fences.  Funny thing, on the bar side of the street there are no fences.  People, including us, just hover around the entrance to the restaurant waiting for the action.

The cowboys ride through town surrounding the honouree, aka the bull.  Otherwise known as dinner!  Once they get to the end of town, they turn the bull around and chase it back down the street.  This is where things get tricky.

We have no where to hid in the event that the bull doesn't know what he is suppose to be doing.  People around us are slowly leaking out onto the street, each trying to get a better angle for a picture of the streaking 1500 lb beast.   I too get in the action.  Camera at the ready, I hid behind Johanne as she looks toward the oncoming bull with the cowboy escort.  This happens several times as there are at least 4 bulls that need to be driven.  The excitement of the moment makes everyone very thirsty.  Beer and wine is flowing.  The bulls having completed their part, are safely stowed in the trailers awaiting their next performance.  Now it is time for the cowboys to celebrate.  They ride in a close group back to the centre of town, there they are presented with large glasses of the local pastis(home brew).  Which they drink while posing for photos with the appropriate dignitaries.

Once this is completed, the party starts.  We even got to sample some free food and wine, as some enterprising restaurants use their products to entice people to dine with them.

The main square has a stage where the band is about to get going.  Playing a combination of old folk songs and current day favourites.  Laughter, food, wine and dancing replace the cowboys.  Families celebrate together.  It is a fantastic scene to behold.

We had a blast.  

Tomorrow we are hitting the road for Gordes, an amazing mountainside village.  Come join us.

Be Well

Sante

Le Paradou, Provence, France:  Part Deux

The greatest advantage of our location is just that.  The location puts us exactly where one would want to be. Within easy reach are the major historic cities of Provence, the wineries and the quaint small villages that dot the landscape.  We couldn't ask for more.  This morning, as we are apt to do most days, a walk to the patisserie-boulangerie about 2 minutes away, is in order.  Freshly baked bread, croissants, and if we are really lucky a  Sacristan.  This little stick like pastry, is so.... well, I can't provide a description that adequately conveys the taste.  Trust me you would like it.  So does everyone else.  The bakery is a beehive of activity from 7.30 until 11.30 each day.  As I walk up the street, I can see a parade of people doing the same.  I need to walk faster, maybe I should run?  There is a small line of locals queuing in the shop, several people are milling around the spattering of tables in front....quietly sharing the daily gossip as they eat the spoils of their morning purchase.

I am in line, bobbing my head up, down and across, trying to get a peek into the shop. I can't see the prize.  I am too late, wait, there it is... nirvana!  My turn to order.  I panic, blurting out my desires in English.  The entire place comes to a stand still. All eyes are on me.  Who is this infiltrator that has come to steal our daily bread? I quickly restate my order in French. ( I have been practising all morning to say the 5 word sentence with perfect diction)  "Bonjour, deux baguette s'il-vous-plait!
 It comes out perfect.  The stand still is averted.  I point to the Sacristan and take two of them as well.  The first bite happens before I cross the three feet to the exit. My God, this is good.  The second bite happens shortly thereafter.  I get back in line to order another one as it will be mere seconds before this one is gone.  I am so glad we don't have a patisserie like this at home.  I would become a Sacristan addict.

We enjoyed another fine wine tasting yesterday which morphed into a fabulous lunch. The winery is the one we missed during our last tasting adventure.  The Chateau d'Estoublon is a large estate about 2 kms for our house.  In addition to some fine wines they produce olive oil.  We tasted all they had on offer.  The reds were exceptionally good as was the rose.  The restaurant nestled in the trees, in the shadow of the estate, was called "Le Bistro Mogador".  We had a delightful three course fixed menu with a bottle of Rose. This is also the site of a famous french TV series "Les filles de Mogador". Johanne, of course, is all over that!

A nice farewell lunch for my parents who we will deliver to Marseilles tomorrow morning. 

Johanne and I are going to the beach from the airport.  Not the beach in Marseilles, we are going to revisit an old haunt in Cassis.  A seaside village about an hour south of Marseilles.  We took the slow road along the Med to enjoy the beauty of the waterfront.   For the record, Marseilles is the second largest city in France, after Paris, and by far the largest and most important French city on the Mediterranean.  Throughout history, this port city was the centre of French trade, the most significant connection to markets to the south, east and west and the entrance to trade with throughout the north of France.   It is fair to say that the French Empire strength emanated from this port through much of the 18th century.   The area was first settled 30000 years ago.  Evidence of palaeolithic cave paintings can be found in the caves near the claques of Morgiou.  This natural port became a battleground for many years.  As virtually every culture took a turn in government.  The Romans had the most success.  Some very interesting laws were passed during the Roman era.  Among them was the forbidding of women to consume wine, and permission, via a vote by the senate, for a citizen to commit suicide.  Today I could find no evidence that the woman of Marseilles have embraced the no wine law.... and who can blame them.  

  

One place of interest is the Chateau d'If seen above.  This small island situated a mile of shore in the Bay of Marseilles was made famous by Dumas and his book the Count of Monte Cristo.  The fortress turned prison plays a lead role in the story.

Cassis was packed, as it should be on a perfect sunshine day.  We wanted to visit the calanques(rocky beach, clothing optional) that we had enjoyed back in 2000. As we made our way through the narrow winding roads, we couldn't help noticing the number of people walking in the same direction.  We could not go quickly, in fact, the walkers were making better progress than we were.  At the key junction in the road, we are stopped and informed that there was no parking available at the nude beach.  We would have to walk the 3 kms if we were to reach our intended target.  We responded with just the right amount of snobbery,  we were not headed in that direction.  Look at us....a couple of grey powered, card carrying CARP members! How could he think such a thing?  We then asked him to come closer so we could speak privately, figuring we could convince him that our plan merely included a drive by of a favourite spot from our more physically fit years...that we had no intention on staying.  To which, he responded with a big smile and a wink and suggested that we park in the city and simply go by on foot.  "The pictures will turn out much better" he says, while laughing and bidding us adieu.

The family beach was packed.  The water clear and inviting, at least it was to look at.  Once you set foot in it... it was a much different story.  Chilly would be the word. Thank god it is not a nude beach...shrinkage if you know what I mean.

We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon before heading back to Le Paradou.  Tonight is a big night.  We have managed to get a reservation at the Bistro de Paradou, a Michelin Guide recommended restaurant.  Can't wait.

 This 300 year old farmhouse is under the direction of Jean Louis and Mireille Pons, transplants from nearby Arles.  We tried for many days to get a reservation only to be told NO.  It seems that the regulars check the menu each week and reserve well in advance for the menu they like.  You see this restaurant only serves one "four course" menu each night.  Directed by what is in season.  If you don't like what is on offer on any given night then it is best  you don't come.  There will not be a second choice.

 After a considerable amount of negotiation (some would call it begging) we were squeezed in.  Sort of ....that is! We were given exclusive use of the patio.  Not a big sacrifice.  It was a lovely night, not too cool and our table was situated beneath some ancient oak trees next to the perfect example of Provence architecture...the farmhouse.  We were in food nirvana.  As we got settled in, the locals started to arrive.  A family of 6, a group of three men, 4 friends, two mature couples etc.   All seemed to be very familiar with each other, not so much as starting conversations among the groups, more like an acknowledgment of arrival.  I see you....me too. They all do the traditionnal 3 times kisses on the cheeks (Parisians now are doing 4 so if the group is large, the first arrived are finished dinner by the time the last kissing session is over!) Eyes glance at each other then converge on us.  Clearly, we don't belong.  We are acting aloof, sunglasses still on, in spite of the dwindling light, we are doing our best French Parisian accents, well Johanne is, I repeat the four french words I know I can fake with some level of confidence.  Everyone settles on the patio for pre meal drink and about 10 smokes each...must get the taste buds suitably tarred before the four courses of Michelin rated ecstasy.  Our waiter starts us off with some local olives, oil and bread.  He asks if we want Rose, Blanc, or Rouge for wine.  Johanne chooses Rose, I the Rouge.  Two bottles arrive. We look a bit surprised, the waiter informs us that wine is included with tonight's dinner.  Should we need more... not a problem.  You just have to love France!  The locals head inside, they seem pleased or relieved that we are relegated to the garden.  If you have read Peter Mayle's book, " A year in Provence", you will understand the time investment required to be accepted by the locals.  It might never  happen.  It's OK with me as long as I get to eat!

The first courses:  Roasted eggplant with an amazing vinaigrette of fresh herbs, olive oil and lemon.  The tomato puree was so mouthwatering, bursting with flavour.

 Johanne had the foie gras ravioli.  The cream sauce was so smooth and silky, you could eat it as a soup.  The foie gras just melted in your mouth.  We were sharing our plates so we could experience both tastes.  It was really hard to give one up to get the other.  In the end, both were sooooo good, I want to go back there right now.

 Rack of Lamb, Garlic mashed Potatoes. so light you just know there are no calories in them.  Local foraged mushrooms.  Best ever!   Period.

 OK this is the part that was over the top.  The cheese plate arrives.. 14 different perfectly prepared French marvels.  The waiter just leaves the tray...these are for you, enjoy.  We did.  All 14 of them.  More wine please!! One can't have cheese without wine.  The locals are starring, I think they like us.

Desert was so good I forgot to take a picture.  Creme Brule and an Apple tart.  I could eat here every day.  The locals are all back out in the garden with us.  They like us...I can tell.  Of course it could be the smoking.  They have to be outside to do it.  With the day fully complete, we bid our waiter good night and walk back to the house.  Thank God we are only a few hundred meters away, the wine is taking its toll!  A great day.

Be Well

Sante