Bali. traffic, sun and sand

When you think of Bali, what comes to mind?  If you think beautiful, pristine beaches, luxury hotels, temples well that would be the touristy answer, and you wouldn't be wrong.  The relationship between luxury and poverty, commercial and agricultural land is an interesting contradiction.  Our first hotel, some 10 minutes on foot from the town centre had rice paddy's on either side.   Five star hotels had shanty town neighbours.  It is an awkward relationship to understand.

Our stay was in the town of Seminyak, on the island of Bali in Indonesia.  Ten days, two hotels and lots of wandering around.  First rule of this area.  DON'T DRIVE!  The traffic is pure chaos!  The population of Indonesia is about  250 million, 4.2 million of them live on the island of Bali.  I am absolutely convinced that all of them own a scooter, or small motorcycle to be used exclusively in Seminyak! The streets are narrow, even by European standards.  Those markings defining multi lanes, are merely a suggestion.  It is common to have the two wheelers twenty across on a two lane road, in both directions.  Somehow, it works.  Even when you use the sidewalks you must pay attention....bikers sometimes use the sidewalks when the roads become jammed.  Don't drive.  Period.  The pictures don't tell the traffic story.  Take notice of the third picture down.

These former Absolut Vodka bottles, have been re-purposed.  While it seems to be the standard bottle choice, it is not the only option.  The contents are a welcome sight for most of the residents.  You see, you can't have 300 million scooters and not have gas stations.  Yes that's correct this is how you fill up when in Seminyak.  Little carts sit on the sidewalks outside every imaginable type of commercial establishment.  Like lemonade stands for the every buzzing two wheelers.  I never did find out how much a bottle costs.  I wonder what was the better deal, the Vodka or the gas.  Both designed to ignite.  LOL. 

Most hotel lobby's are open air designs, with a free concert playing each afternoon.  Sometimes one player, often two.  The sounds become part of the fabric of the village.  You hear it, but only notice when it stops.  Like the sunshine and the humidity, the melodies are quintessentially part of the Bali experience.

 Ku De Ta.  A French phrase "coup d etat"( pronounced kudeta)  translates to mean "stroke of state" or "blow against the state".  Commonly relating to the sudden overthrow of a government, usually by a small group.  This Ku De Ta is slightly different.  It is a beach front luxury restaurant and entertainment venue.  Entering would feel very much like the definition.  Machine gun clad security guards welcome you at the entrance.  Airport style searches are conducted.  Once it is determined you are not carrying.... stuff you are free to enter.  It was Easter weekend when we visited.  The staff was dressed appropriately.  Once inside it is quite the deal. a horseshoe shaped restaurant designed to look out at the pool deck and the sea beyond.

We visited another establishment along the strip called Potato Head Beach Club.  The same experience to enter and equally impressive once inside.  The food was excellent in both places, the scenery was pretty good too!   I am speaking of Johanne of course. LOL

 

After two months of exploring we were ready for some R&R.  We definitely found it here.  Leisurely days spend by the pool, soaking up the sun, reading and the odd cocktail followed by a never ending search for interesting dinning options.  It was a perfect 10 day trip.  We never got run over, we did get massaged a few times.  Fantastic!!! We didn't do any of the touristy things like mountain hikes, temple visits, partying til dawn.  So if you want to know about that, I guess you will need to continue your search.  For us the tranquility of the roof top pool was just the tonic we needed before our next adventure.  Sorrento, Italy.

I leave you with the sun setting on Indonesian visit.

Selamat tinggal


Be Well

Surfer's Paradise. "Crikey" Brisbane rocks

The name doesn't really tell the story.  I am sure at one time it was a Surfer's Paradise.  Now it is more like Miami Beach.  Towering condos and a centre for youthful exuberance is what you will find in this famous local.  One of the best ways to explore the area is by boat.

The area has an interesting service called the Surfer's Paradise Meter maids.  These maids, dressed in gold bikinis, were first called to duty in 1965 in protest to the city's introduction of parking meters.   These bikini clad women would top up the expired meters.  While meter topping was illegal, the city didn't enforce the bylaw as the publicity the meter maids garnered was tremendous.  Today, the modern parking meters don't require the top up.  In spite of this, the meter maids can still be seen roaming the main drag.  It seems Sex sells.  LOL. 

The beach itself is considered one of the best in Australia, which is saying a lot considering how many beaches this country has.  If you are keen to see the area from above, take the elevator to the top of Q1, the world's fifth highest building.  There you can see all that the Gold Coast has to offer from observation deck .......or better yet...... stop for lunch.  Bring money as the food and the view are not free.  For the really adventurous, there is a outdoor climb which will take you to the pinnacle of the building some 270 metres in the sky.  I don't like heights so the the boat cruise works great for me.   

Which is what we did.  The tour takes you on an exploration of the Nerang River and canals surrounding the town centre.  From the comfort of the deck, you will gain an apparelled view of the landscape, from luxury homes to the chrome and glass skyline.  After our cruise, our tour included a three course meal at a local restaurant.

There is one time of year that would be best to leave Surfers off your travel calendar. It is late November/early December.  Unless of course you are a "Schoolie".  Much like our spring break, this time of the year is reserved for end of school rite of passage otherwise known as partying.  Been there done that....besides I prefer our current brand of spring break, aka retired!!! One very long Friday night!

If you are looking for a modern, clean, big city experience, than look no further than Brisbane.   Australia's third largest and second fastest growing city, offers a great contrast of things to visit.  In the central business district, found mostly in a strong u shaped elbow of the Brisbane river,  you can shop, eat and explore the area on foot.  Many of the oldest buildings can be found in this space.  Among them, the Old Windmill in Wickham park.  This 1820 era building constructed by convicts, served as a grain mill and punishment tool for its builders.  The mill was not actually powered by wind.... those convicts who earned punishment were the power that turned the wheel.  Talk about working for your daily bread!   The structure also had a hand in the early development of TV.  The very first broadcasts of TV in the southern hemisphere were sent from the top of this tower...way back in 1934.  Long before TV was readily available.  The transmissions continued until the end of WWII.  

A modern city, split in half by the Brisbane river.  The south bank is a must visit.  The cultural centre of Brisbane.  anchored by the Gallery of Modern Art,  this area includes the Opera house, Ballet, Symphony, the Centre for Performing arts and many theatre groups.  10 bridges connect the south bank with the city's other venues, ferries run up and down the river as part of the transit system and 27 km of cycle and pedestrian paths circle the river on both sides.  

Brisbane hosts one of the most eccentric race: The cockroaches racing championship...how bizarre!

The south bank residents even have a man made beach to enjoy on a sunny day.  Overall, the environment feels small town and inviting, no small feat for a large cosmopolitan centre.  We enjoyed our time here and look forward to a return visit.   

Driving in Australia makes you realize how huge the properties are in this country. The largest property owned is larger than the country of Belgium! Talking about "big", there is a golf course that covers 850 miles.....largest in the world.....I wonder if I could play this one day!

I got to play a few times at the Twin Heads near our hotel and plan to upgrade to more exotic courses next time!

Our last excursion was the Australia Zoo. What a display of all the unique animals of Australia coupled with numerous shows for all tastes. 5 hours to see it and we could have spent more time!

Lots to learn.......kangaroo and Emu can't walk backwards, Wallabies (smaller kangaroo) roaming in opium crops in the old days would get high and run around, building circles in the crops (must have been interpreted as aliens landing on earth).......wombats have poop in a square shape! A kangaroo is 1 cm long at birth! There is more camels in Australia than in Saudi Arabia!  Camels are a pest in the centre of Australia...they were imported way back for transport and ended up roaming free all over.....they break fences, look for food, looting farms and stores. Australian are selling tons of them to Saudis for meat but it's still a huge problem. Koala population has dropped by 15% due to clamadya epidemic.  The zoo is a fabulous place to get a picture hugging a Koala...very unique souvenir!

Our stay down under is coming to a close.  We have explored the spectacular natural environments, the amazing beaches, big cities, small local communities and are left with the wonderful feeling that we are home.  Australia feels a lot like being in Canada.  The people are friendly and considerate, multiculturalism exists here, lots of open space.  Basically, Canada with better weather!  We will be back next year. 

G'Day Mate.

Be well

Sydney,and Cairns in three days

No trip "down under" would be complete without a visit to Sydney.  Getting there  from Coolangatta is painless.   The airport is a short 10 minute ride from the Twin Towers, our hotel.  Discount airlines offer regular daily departures for as little as $49 Aus dollars (one way).  You could take the first flight out of Coolangatta spend the day in Sydney return late in the evening.  This was not our plan.  

We intended to spend the night.  There is so much to do..... bring your best walking shoes, the best way to explore is on foot.    Sydney has many beautiful parks throughout the core.  The oldest and best situated is the Royal Botanical Gardens.  Next to the Opera House, this 30 hectare sight offers a peaceful respite from the hustle of Australia's largest city.   Another great park for people watching or a leisurely picnic lunch is Hyde Park, offering long stretches of tree lined walkways that meander through some of the finest sections of the city.  This park includes a world heritage site called the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, where you can learn about Sydney's convict history.  

The harbour parks offer the best views of what makes Sydney spectacular.  The big city by the sea.   Iconic places such as Darling Harbour is a perfect place to start your tour. Stroll along the harbour's edge to enjoy the culture.  Restaurants and shops along the western edge of the city.  

The Rocks is a "must" visit.  An historic area in the city centre. it lies on the southern shore of the grand harbour.  It was the first European settlement back in 1788.  The original homes gave way to the sandstone structure, from which the area got its name; "the Rocks".   To say it was a tough place would be an understatement.  The target of arriving convicts, sailors and prostitutes.  A gang called the "Rocks Push"  ran the area until the 1870's.  If you wanted something the gang decided if you got it and how much you paid.  Often more then the advertised price.  No honour among thieves.

 The bubonic plague made an appearance in the early 1900's.  This marked the end of the gang and the government took control of the area, demolishing hundreds of buildings due to neglect.  The area has continued to have its battles, developers on one side and historical benevolence on the other.  Thankfully the historical architecture was saved, today it is a pleasant tourist area. Its proximity to Circular Quay and the harbour bridge affords easy access. Stop by the "Fortune of War" Pub for an adult beverage or two.  Reputed to be the oldest pub in Sydney.  Imagine if these walls could talk.

We stopped, tested a few of the locals masterpiece beers and looked for any sign of the rich convict life that once was.  Nothing but yuppies visiting today.  Still the beer was cold and the company excellent.

OK, so the one place you HAVE to go to, when you are in Sydney, is the Opera House.  Named as one of the  20th century's most iconic buildings, the Opera house has complicated and troubling past.  Jorn Utzon, a danish architect, won the right to build the complex after an international design competition.  The local government wanted to create something to attract tourists.  The building had to make a bold statement!

Mission accomplished......but not without some challenges.  Not the least of which was the cost.  The original budget for the build was $7 million and a target completion date of January 1963.  Basically a five year plan with a little over a million a year burn rate.  Seems OK for the time.  

Well faster then you can say "money pit", things got out of hand.  Jorn, by 1963 had spend 22 million and the house was nowhere near completion.  The government that envisioned the project was long gone.  The new government decided the best course of action was to fire Mr Utzon and bring in the city architects.  Thinking that local skills with a hands on government relationship could and would right the ship.  Which of course they did.  Spending a mere 50 million more to get things on track.  So....... after only being ten years behind schedule and 1457% over budget the "house" was ready for none other then Queen Elizabeth to pop the cork on some bubbly and welcome the world to Sydney's iconic venue.  Mr.  Utzon was neither invited or mentioned during the celebration.  In fact, it took until 1990 for the city and the brain trust behind the design to reconcile.  Jorn never did visit the completed structure, he died before that could happen.    The building is a architectural and construction marvel.  Take the tour of the site , it is well worth the visit. Try to take in a performance if you are able.  We did!  Puccini's La Boheme.  Not a bad seat in the house and a truly enjoyable performance.  Of course you can't go to the Opera on an empty stomach.   The good news is Sydney is a foodie town.  There are no shortage of culinary choices on offer.  We found a seafood restaurant right on the eastern side of the Circular Quay called the Sydney Cove Oyster Bar.  The Patio overlooked both the Harbour Bridge and the Opera house as well as the city skyline.  Perfection!!!  We enjoyed, with our Palm Springs friends Dallas and Donna, a fabulous seafood meal with a nice crisp Australian white wine,  Harvey Bay Scallops, Pambula and Merimbula South Coast Oysters, Blue Swimmer Crab, Tasmanian Wild Salmon.  The perfect pre-Opera meal. 

 

If you have time, take the ferry from Circular Quay to the suburban area north of Sydney called Manley Beach.  The ferry ride will provide one of the best views of the harbour you will find.  A couple hours visit in Manley will be plenty to stroll through the casual laid back village.  The beach is picture perfect.

You might even meet a local musician playing the Didgeridoo and sharing colourful stories of his and maybe your ancestors.  

Take a walk along the boardwalk that surrounds the beach for the full people watching experience.

Good Bye Sydney, hello Cairns, the Great Barrier Reef and Kuranda.

Generally considered the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef,  Cairns pronounced "Kaenz" is the largest northern city in the state of Queensland.  Founded in 1876, based on the economics of serving miners hunting for gold in the nearby Hodgkinson River gold fields. After the gold rush, the city port became the centre for transport of Sugar Cane, minerals.  Today it is a pleasant open air city filled with cafes and bars.  Filled each night with youthful exuberance.  A visit to the night market on the main waterfront street is something to behold as you bar hop along.  There is a casino marking the port as well.  So after your day on the rafts of the Great Barrier Reef you will not have any problem finding things to do.

Cairns has an unusual inhabitant that remains still, quiet and lazy during the day....... Making itself known at or around happy hour each late afternoon.  Bats, thousands of them.  You might be able to see them in the tree pictured below.  Each afternoon around 5, these creatures come to life.  The shrill noises fill the sky as they fly in huge flocks zigzagging through the air, frantically, with no apparent direction or cause.  They fly as though they have lost something and are in a panic to find it.  It creates quite a show.  

The Great Barrier Reef.  The worlds largest coral reef, 2900 reefs, 900 islands measuring 2300 kilometres.  It can be seen from outer space and is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.  It is the largest living structure on the planet!  Hearing, reading or watching programs regarding this spectacular site, does not prepare you for the real thing.

Your adventure starts by boarding one of the many tour ships for the cruise out to the diving platforms. The trip takes a little more than an hour.  The seas were calm, the sun was on vacation that day.  The diving platform serves as a restaurant and station from which you can take a helicopter ride, snorkel or scuba dive.  There is also an underwater walk where you wear a large helmet type breathing device and walk under the platform.  I didn't try it but it looked pretty interesting.  Also included is a glass bottom boat or submarine ride for those who prefer to see the reef without getting wet.  We had a pretty big crew on this voyage.  All smiles both before and after the day.

While the water is not cold, most people wear the wetsuits offered, it seems the jellyfish also like the reef.  The suits ensure you leave with just memories of the day, no painful stings to go along with them.  I have some cool video of our adventures, all underwater stuff.  But I have no idea how to post them here so you will just have to take my word for it, we had a blast.  The reef colours are amazing, the fish plentiful........ a breathtaking experience.

Kuranda, the village in the rain forest.  Located some 25 kilometres from Cairns, Kuranda has two very cool ways to visit.
Take the Kuranda Scenic Railway from Cairns through the MacCalister Mountain range arriving 1 hour and 55 minutes later at the village.  The total length of the trip is 37 km's.  The train makes a few stops along the way for photo opportunities including Baron Falls.
The railway construction started in 1886 and was finished and open for passengers in 1891.  Building a railway is tough stuff, many men lost their lives to complete this route.  They build 15 tunnels and 37 bridges to allow people and goods to travel the 328 metres of elevation tot he summit.  Over 3 million cubic ft of earth was moved to built the railway.  It is am impressive ride, and an equally impressive feat of engineering.
The village itself is simple, offering many nature driven opportunities as well as many food options.  It is a relaxing way to spend the day amongst the glory of Australia's natural geography.
The other way to go is the Rain forest Sky Rail or Cable car.   We took it on the way back.  The 7.5 km trip takes about 1.5 hours and has you gliding along the top of the rain forest in an 6 person cable car.  The views are amazing!!  The route includes two stops, allowing you to explore the forest floor.  One stop includes a short guided tour by a forest ranger, pointing out some of the unique features of the rain forest bio-diversity.  Very peaceful and well worth the visit.

Well we have visited big cities, underwater life and the treetops, time to head back to Coolangatta.  Surfer's Paradise and Brisbane are waiting for us.

G'day Mate

Be Well

Peace Love and Byron Bay

The bus departed our hotel, heading east on Griffith Street towards Marine Parade.  Those of us, sitting on the right side windows, get a postcard perfect view of Kirra Beach.  A beautiful horseshoe shaped marvel that if walked, would deliver you to the skyscrapers in the distance, otherwise known as Surfer's paradise.  Not our destination today though. We are headed to the hippy town, Byron Bay to the south of Coolangatta, including a stop in Brunswick Head for the local hippy market. 

The market is situated in the Memorial Park, where the Brunswick River joins the Sea.  The views create an inviting and natural setting for both vendors and visitors alike.  One is immediately aware that this is not your regular farmers market.  Yes, you can find a nice assortment of organic foods from the local farmer's garden but added to it is a second hand clothing flee market.  Vendors offering items likely removed from their closets just a few hours earlier.  Tee shirts, skirts, head wear, slightly worn bongs,  broken in sandals, pretty much everything that you could find stuffed in the rear of a surfer wagon (aka VW bus).  The entire market was a circular affair.  The centre housed food vendors,  offering a cornucopia of items.  Hot dogs to smoothies.  The epicentre of action included a band for our musical enjoyment while shopping.  Tie dyed fashions, crystals and other spiritual healing items filled in the spaces between the food and veg vendors.  Everyone swayed as they browsed.  The sounds of the four piece band filled the air.  I, having just purchased some honey baked nuts, joined the growing audience crowding the makeshift stage.  The lead singer, smoothly taping the ground with her doc martins, complete with hand knitted wool socks hanging loosely over the open top of her boots like a dog's tongue, kept the band in sinc.  She had an interesting style, gypsy dress, tied with a scarf, a loosely fitting tie dyed tee shirt covered with a macrame vest, her hair wavy and of an indiscriminate colour tied back with a scarf that matched her belt.  I don't remember the song,  I didn't recognize it.  Folksy to be sure and very pleasant sounding.  She was a natural woman, and she was happy.  You could see it in her eyes, bright shiny eyes, full of joy ...and truth.  In fact that is how this whole market felt.  People in tune with each other and for each other.     If you find yourself in the area on the first Saturday of the month take the time to visit, you will leave happier than you arrived.   OK, so on to Byron Bay.

The iconic Byron Bay lighthouse, built in 1901 marks the most easterly point on the Australian mainland.  You can reach the lighthouse and it's lookout by foot from the city centre.  It is a long walk, uphill, so not for everyone.  We, in the interest of time took the bus....really I wanted to walk but Johanne wouldn't carry the knapsack with the 6 beer I had hidden in it........  "You can't walk that far with out something to re-hydrate!" I said.  "You carry it", she said.  I am taking the pictures and everyone knows that men can't do two things at once.  She gave me the "you're number one sign" which I understood to mean we should take the bus. Yes!  exercise averted.  LOL.

From the lookout you get a terrific view of Tallow Beach to the south and open ocean to the north.

Byron Beach, as it looks from town, is pretty amazing too.  So much so that one of Aussie's famous actors,  Paul Hogan (Crocodile Dundee) resided here and owned the still popular Byron Beach Hotel and Bar.  The town has been many things since founded by James Cook.  Logging, gold mining, dairy farming, to whaling . In the late 1800's, the area became the central figure in the production and export of butter to the world.  By the 1950's, it was not a very pleasant place to live.  It stunk. Meat packing and annual whale slaughter made the air unpalatable.  By the middle of the 1960"s, the meat packers and whaler's were replaced by long board surfers, attracted to the natural breaks offered in the bay.  Byron Bay was transformed to a tourist destination.  The land was rejuvenated and the alternative lifestyle became the town's character.  As tourism grew, the hippy culture moved further west to Nimbin, where the Aquarius Festival is held.  Nimbin, which we didn't visit, is considered a "social experiment", an escapist subculture and the undisputed cannabis capital of Australia. Maybe next time we will make a stop in Nimbin too.  There are two main streets in Byron Bay. They form the main intersection of the town.  Shops and resturants line the two streets on all sides.  Take a stroll up one side and down the other you are sure to find what you want.  Art to groceries.

As we made our return towards Coolangatta, and in keeping with the whole alternative lifestyle theme, we stopped a the Crystal Castle and Shamahala Gardens.   The lush gardens provide a tranquil setting for meditation as you walk surrounded by giant crystals and mystical statues.  

We had the pleasure of sharing the "Peace Experience".  Where the sounds of crystal bowls washed over us while a spiritual guide lead us on a visualization meditation experience, followed by a Kora walk around the World Peace Stupa.

Now I am not the most spiritual man in the world, but I must say this experience had an impact upon me.  A quietening of the mind and body.  Peace!  Very cool.

Over all an interesting way to spend the day in nature.  Uniquely Australian!

G'day Mate

Be Well