Chott El Jerid.  The immaculate white salt desert.  The view does not change much for the next hour. In the distance we can see an outcropping of buildings.  It turns out to be an outlet mall for Berber paraphernalia.  We can't resist a look, which gives me a chance to take a few pictures.

 Out driver, Ali, seems very interested in what the vendor is selling.  Behind his makeshift stand, he proudly displays an assortment of Berber jewelery and ointments, fresh from the local witchdoctor. The top of his list is some kind of potion he is calling organic Viagra.  He is pitching it at the top of his lungs, like a good Tunisian salesman, in 5 different languages.  There is no translation for the word "Viagra" in French, German, Spanish, Dutch and Arabic.  His pitch goes on in 20 second bursts in each language followed by the universally understood word,  "Viagra".  Marketing is powerful. Still no purchases are made.

 This stuff is everywhere.  It is called The Rose of the Desert. The colours are natural, these salt bases rock formations are found about three metres below ground level in the salt lake bed.  Formed by pressure and evaporation.  They are pretty cool.

 This is a close up of the texture of the salt left after evaporation.

 Anyone recognize this?  Space movie fans should.  It is the Lars Homestead, the childhood home of Luke Skywalker from "Attack of the Clones" and "Revenge of the Sith" Found right here in this salt lake region.    There are other Star Wars sites in this area, more on that later.

Back on the road, we arrive in Douz just in time for lunch and a few hours of RnR poolside before heading to the dunes.  Douz is know as the "ultimate palm oasis" because of its 500,000 trees, producing diglat noor dates.  In earlier times, it was a key stop on the trans-sahara caravan route.  Today it acts as an ideal staging ground for safaris.

The moment has arrived.  We are about to climb aboard our beasts and head out into the desert for a trek amongst the ever changing sand dunes.  Dressed in full Berber regalia.

It was a blast.  Except, the camel ridden by one of our co-travelers kept trying to bite me on the butt. The first time it happened, I just about went from sitting to standing on the carpet like saddle.  Our guide informed me that the camel doesn't bite.  I was not convinced.  One eye on the desert, the other on the dubious beast to my left, we rode on!  I am feeling like Omar Sharif in Lawrence of Arabia.  It happens again!  I let out a muffled scream, the guide hisses at my attacker.... dutifully the camel drops back and no further incidence occurred.   Great fun, the whole group was full of smiles.  Johanne looked like a pro on her steed.

 It is in places like this that we experience first hand, the difficulties that the local people face.  Tunisia has free education for it's youth.  Many of them have a university degree, however jobs are scarce, particularly in the southern parts of the country.  One of the two camel handlers looking after our party is a university graduate.  This is the only work available to him, luckily it pays enough to support him and his family. Many others in this region must rely on selling items that they find foraging in the desert. Items such as fossils or rose of the desert rocks that sell for 1-2 dinars (.60-1.20 CDN) it's a tough way to live.  In spite of the hardships, they are always pleasant and honest. Happy, at least from the outside looking in.

There was a heightened energy as we settled in, for our 30 minute drive to our next destination. I am not sure if it was the hangover of the excitement of the camel ride or the impending trip through the sand dunes to our Berber Camp for our night under the stars.

Getting to the camp was something to experience.  There was no road, just narrow gaps between the dunes.  Our driver, Ali, stopped the truck and climbed the dunes on a few occasions to survey the route.  Picking our way through the mounds of sand, it reminds me of skiing a mogul run.  Pick your line and go, bouncing off the sides of the hills, keeping your momentum in check, not too fast or too slow.  A few times, there was no way around or in between the sand dunes so we blasted through them.  Ali expertly moving the steering wheel vigorously from left to right, to keep the sand from overwhelming the front wheels.  The sun is getting low in the sky, we can't see any sign of our destination.  We are in the middle of nowhere.  The energy in the truck seems to have turned to mild apprehension.  What if we get stuck?  Are there rebels out here?  Just when it appeared we had lost our way, Ali hit the gas, turned sharply to the left and shot between two 30 foot dunes.  Magically, the entrance to our nighttime oasis appeared.

 Our tent for the night.

 We drove in from this spot above

 The trail is there somewhere.....

 sundown! time for dinner

A plate of Tunisian specialities followed by BBQ lamb, couscous, and fruit.  Perfect meal to end perfect day.  The beer sure tastes good under the desert night too!

That light in the background was the moon.  Bright and full.  It was so quiet we slept like babies.

Tomorrow we meet the Troglodyte people.

Be Well

Salaam