After the successful get-a-way from the car park, we didn't have any further incidents.  On our way to Jerez d la Frontera we made a brief stop in Cadiz.  What a nice surprise.  This seaside city is surrounded on 3 sides by water and is the oldest continuously inhabited city in all of Spain.  Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, it was occupied by virtually every major power due to it's ideal natural port.  Sir Francis Drake and Napoleon even took a shot at trying to  conquer it for the same reasons.  They failed, Spain wins.  Cadiz is so important to Spain, it's first Constitution was born here in 1812.  OK enough history.   We made our way to the centre of town, entered the main plaza and walked the area.  Beautiful.  Here are a few shots.

With our quick tour complete, we set off.  We have booked in to a boutique hotel called Bellas Artes.  With only 19 rooms and a great location across the street from the the main Cathedral it should be a perfect spot to explore the town and celebrate our anniversary.   The site was the home of a former wine baron.  It's entrance was very modest. a simple front door opened to a spectacular three level enclosed courtyard.  Our top floor suite had an amazing deck with an impressive view of the cathedral, a huge Jacuzzi tub and a canopy bed.  A good start to the night!  Here is the view from the deck.

Nicely settled in, it was time to discover what Jerez had to offer.  Our first stop was to Haman Andalusi Arabic Baths.  We discovered during our tour of Morocco that these baths were the country club of the Medina.  Men would meet there at the end of the day to catch up on the news.  Women and children would do the same. Not together.  The women would also use this time to survey the young men to choose one for their  daughters.  You can't hide from the truth in the bath.  lol.   

After the bath house we passed a large Bodega, the Spanish version of a winery, there are many of them here since Jerez is the Sherry capital of the world.  Think of Champagne and you think of Reims.  Jerez is the same for Sherry.  Unfortunately our timing was bad, all the Bodegas were closed.  We did the next best thing...and found a tapas bar with a tasting menu.  

It took a few hours to find the right one.  If fact we walked the entire town, after all one has to build up a thirst!  Our search landed us in the main square known as Plaza De Arenal.  Once the setting of bull fights, battles and duels between knights, it is now home to an orgy of food purveyor's.  Nirvana to our hunger, or thirst in my case.  Our holy grail is called Albores.  It is rated very highly by Michelin and Trip Advisor.  The menu was interesting and they served Sherry.  22 different kinds.   By the glass. Perfect!  It was dark out, the little street nicely populated with locals out for the nightly paseo. A few street buskers plying their trade,  the night is really looking good. We make our selections.

Foie with caramelized fig jam.  Our waiter helps us with a sherry pairing. He chose a very dry slightly yellow firewater.  It tasted more like a tequila then wine, however after a bite of the foie and jam, the taste mellowed.  Next we ordered an egg artichoke with black truffles and ham in tempura, paired with a semi dry Sherry.  To say the artichoke was amazing would-be an understatement! The crunch of the tempura, the smokiness of the black truffle.  Wow! The Sherry was less alcohol and more wine this time.  We decided that sherry is best left to the Brit's.  We go back to wine. Red wine from just up the road in Arcos.  Better than better, especially when paired with the best lasagna I have ever eaten.  Lasagna with mushrooms, arugula, crispy bacon finished in a cream of foie.  I am not going to write about this course, I miss it too much... Next up a warm chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream.  I think you get the picture! The food was CRAZY GOOD.  

After dinner we floated, or was that staggered, back to our hotel. Time for a jacuzzi.  We turn on the tap and wait, and wait, and wait. 20 minutes later we have about one half an inch of water in a tub that needs at least a foot to cover the jets.  We wait a little longer, then the alarm goes off, it is morning. Holly shit!  No one(me) turned off the water.  The guests below us must think they need to build an ark😁.  I jump up, run to the bathroom and sure enough it is finally ready to be used.  No water pressure we are told, when we ask at the desk at check out.  Lucky!  Still we had a terrific visit. Next up a drive on on the Pueblo Blanca trail to Ronda.  On the way we stopped at the Jerez race track.  This is the winter testing track for Formula 1.  As luck would have it, the minor league of the Formula 1 is testing.  We sneak in and watch for a little while.  The sound is music to me and noise to Johanne.

A few shots of the view from the rural mountain road to get to Ronda. We had some great stops all the way however, when I started this blog I promised to stop writing before you stopped reading so that's what i am going to do.  The last picture is the famous Roman bridge in Ronda.  You really need to see this place if you get a chance...

This post is likely our last one from Spain.  It has been an amazing visit.  We will never forget our time here.  Next stop Malta.

Be Well

Caio

Vino Tino, Vino Blanco, Cava, Xeres.  So much to choose, so little time.   Having bid farewell to the group we were with in Morocco,  Johanne and I are on our own to celebrate our 26th wedding anniversary.  Armed with a basic map and notes from an evening of research in the Michelin guide, we head west toward the Atlantic coast of Andalusia.

After two hours on the road we reach the  village of Tarifa, the southern most point in continental Europe.  Now for a little trivia that will forever make you think of this blog...... Tarifa is credited with being the origin of the word tariff since it was the first port in history to charge merchant vessels a tariff or tax to use the port.  It has been around since the year 700.  While it is not clear when the tax collecting started, you can bet some serious funds have been banked over the years.  The next time you make a purchase, you will never be able to forget that the blog shared this little piece of knowledge.  Go ahead. try, I dare you ...
You are now under my mind control!  HAHAHAHA!

We are just about to arrive in Vejer DE la Frontera.  I am warning you in advance this is all about the food and the wine.  The village is a typical Pueblo Blanco, built on the side of a mountain with a view of the Straight of Gibraltar.  In fact it would have been the perfect spot to watch the battle of Trafalgar since it happened right off this coast.

Upon arrival we parked the car in the public pay area and proceeded to discover the town.  It is small and has the usual churches, roman ruins etc.  All very nice, but we are on the hunt for food.  The Michelin guide indicated that food should be the central theme for this stop.  We settle in at Gamberia Sur in the main square.  The tapas menu looking very interesting indeed. We ordered a very nice Vino Blanco from Bogeda Huerta De Albala, Local, Dry and perfect for the seafood tapas menu to follow.

First up,  Anchovies served on a nacho chip with sweet potato puree and avocado oil on top with tomato corn salad.  This combination is so good you just can't imagine.


The second tapas was a sea bass sashimi with fresh herbs Iberian ham bacon in a lemon and mango butter. It was velvety smooth.  The salty crunchy bacon is a perfect balance.  Not to mention how it made the wine pop.

 The last course was seared tuna with crispy onions, herbs, peppercorns and pan fried potatoes.  Honestly, the best meal we have eaten in a long time. My taste buds are watering as I write about it.  Sorry for the detail I just can't help myself.

 This was our view during this epic lunch.

Stomach satisfied, we head back to the car to leave.  Problem.  The ticket reader will not read our ticket.  We look around......there is no parking attendant.   "Well maybe it is free", I say, "after all we have not been here that long".  We head to the car and proceed down the one way ramp 7 floors down to the exit.  I insert the ticket in the meter, nothing happens.  The machine spits the ticket out. "%&^$#@@$%$" I say.  Johanne says the same "*&^&%$&^%$#@%^&*" in French. What to do?  I back up and wait.  Someone will leave and we will simply follow them out.  Good plan!  20 minutes later no one has left. More French ^%$#$%%^&^&** this time from both of us.  New plan.  I take the lift up to the entry level.  I will get a new ticket.  Trying to look inconspicuous to the customers seated in the cafe across the street, I walk down the ramp. Press the button, nothing.  Not enough weight to trigger the ticket release.
As I turn to leave, I notice that the space between the control arm and the wall might be just wide enough to drive through.  Interesting.  Back to the car with the news.  Johanne suggests that she will try and lift up the security gate and I will drive out.  "let's try it".  She jumps from the car with a renewed spirit.  This will work...demonstrated by her powerful strides toward the arm.  I move the car into position, Johanne grabs hold of the arm and with a mighty tug,  (*(&*&^^%$#%^&&* more FRENCH.  With that it is time for drastic action.  "Johanne, get in the car we are going out the way we came in" says I.  Reluctantly she agrees, absolutely convinced that we will now collide with the car we have been waiting in the last  40 minutes.  Heading down the ramp as we head up in the wrong direction......  Interesting noises ensure as we turn each blind  corner at the top of each ramp.  We make it top the top. We proceed to fold the mirrors in and blast through the narrow gap.  People in the cafe across the street seem impervious to our exit through the entrance.  Did the carpark have video? Are we now fugitives from the Law?  Who cares we are free!  Off to Jerez DE la Frontera.  Home of Sherry.  Shakespeare's character Falstaff speaks about it in detail. We are going to find out what it's all about.  We will also visit the winter home of F1, the Jerez racetrack. Here is a quick clip for you auto buffs of the F3 testing that we got to witness.

Be well

Ciao

Taxi, Taxi.  Morocco and specifically Tetuoan must be the graveyard for 1990 and older vintage Mercedes.  They are everywhere.  Word is that the Moroccan cab companies go throughout Europe looking for E and C class Merc's to use for their fleet.  These cars must have 1 million plus miles on them and still going strong.

After spending the night in Tangier, we are off to the second largest city in North Morocco, Tetouan. The Medina is a UNESCO Heritage site and that is our destination.  On our way we pass the local livestock market where farmers and butchers meet weekly to buy-sell.  Today's purchase will be butchered and sold in the Medina later the same day.

Inside the Medina, it is crowded and busy.  Each section has a specific offering.  Fruit and Veg, Meat, Poultry all have their own areas.  There are tailor streets, jewelery streets, leather goods, all with defined spots.  Barbershops and of course Mosque's. Small ones and large ones depending on how many people they serve.  

I mention barbershops for a reason.  They performed a very interesting service in the Medina.  Circumcision......  Yes your are reading it right.  Up until the late 50's, boys between the age of 2-5 would go to the barber for more then a haircut.  Brings a whole new meaning to a little off the top!  No wonder little boys instinctively cry when they get their first haircut.  They know what can happen inside these former torture chambers.  One other thing.  No pain remedies of any kind were used.  

At the market, the women come from all the surrounding villages, dressed in a very typical fashion.They do not like to have their picture taken.  However, today we are in luck.  Once again, Johanne has been chosen to model the outfit.  Quite a process as you can see.  The colour and style of weaving in the cloth represents the region that the women come from.

 She is ready to start working the stall! Never missing a chance to make more euros!

The locals have a shared approach to baking of bread.  They prepare the dough in their homes and after putting an identifying mark on the top, the women take it to the communal baker.  It becomes the best place in the Medina to catch up on the gossip of the day while the bread is baked.

We stopped for lunch in another old house turned restaurant.  The band was rocking and we had some entertainment. The meal was the famous chicken couscous cooked in a Tajine.

Overall a very interesting trip to a very different cultural landscape. We are glad to have the experience. Next stop the West coast of Spain and the wine region of Jerez.

Until next time,

Be well

Through the border, we are on our way to M'diq.  We arrive in time to experience the local street market.  This market is not like the others.  M'diq is the beach resort for Moroccans, not a tourist destination.  The market stalls are for the locals to buy and sell.  More like a swap meet then a market, everything from used shoes to wires from a toaster..... on sale here.  The streets are littered with people and their stuff.  The cafes surrounding the stalls are filled too.  Men sitting in long rows, backs against the wall, facing each other and the street at the same time. They stop talking and watch as Johanne and I walk past,  you can tell they are curious about us.  We don't fit the landscape of this North African village.

After a thorough investigation of the core of the town it is back to the hotel for dinner.  Looking forward to tomorrow's visit to Chefchaouen deep in the mountains of Northern Morocco.

A fantastic drive.  This part of Morocco is lush and green.  The agricultural epicentre of the country.  

The town of Chefchaouen is  built underneath the shadow of the Rif mountains.  This blue washed city is one of the most spectacular in all of Morocco.  It has long been known to backpackers as a place for easy access to Kif (marijuana).  There are no backpackers in our group so some of the street sellers will not be doing any business today.  LOL. Our local guide for the day is a crusty 80 year old local named Muhammed.  He has a voice that is rough and gravelly.  Sounding like he has spent a lifetime smoking the Hookah or the other local product.  Standing no more the 4'8", his presence was considerably bigger than his stature.  "I speak more then 5 languages" he says, today will be English, French and a little Arabic for our learning experience.  

We followed him through the narrow streets of the Medina.  Along the way he described the history of the area.  We toured a weaver's co-op where over 100 ladies from the surrounding area work together to fill the inventory requirements of the store.  Johanne was selected to model the hand made scarfs that were a plentiful example of the locals work.

Lunch that day was served in a centuries old former private home.  The walls and ceilings were adorned with magnificent carvings and hand painted tiles.  Lunch was delicious and local. Taking advantage of the many spice combinations available, we were treated to a dish of Moroccan Meatballs.  Tiny lamb meatballs, in a tomato sauce with poached eggs, the spice combination, called Ras el Hamout, was powerful. Found throughout North Africa, the merchants typically mixes up a batch using the best spices he has available in his supply.  As many as 30 can be found in the mix and no fewer than 12. Needless to say the sauce was every bit as good as the meatballs, mopped up with Moroccan bread.

After lunch, we headed back through the maze of blue streets for our bus ride to Tanger.  A quick tour of the city and a stop for a camel ride along the beach.  the confluence of the atlantic ocean and the mediterrenan sea as the back drop. Tomorrow's visit of Tetuoan will wrap up the three day exploration.

It has been a busy 10 days since my last post.  Malaga, Cordoba, Ceuta, M'diq, Chefchaouen, Tanger, Tetouan. The last four cities are in Morocco.  Then Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz, Jerez, Alcos de la Frontera, Grazalemaand Ronda.  Now that the foot is in top condition, Johanne and I are making up for lost time.  So where do I start?

Malaga again.  With a purpose.  The Museo Automovilistico.  The combination of rare Automobiles and fashion from the beginning of the automobile through to the 1960's.  Each car was shown with the fashion of the day.  Models representing Hispano Suiza, Bugatti, Delage, Packard, Auburn, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Jaguar, Mercedes, Ferrari etc.  The beauty of this museum is how artfully the positioning of fashion helps to convince the unwitting wife that it is not just a bunch of cars.  Which of course it is.  Surprisingly the concept of fashion and autos works very well.  The auto industry was among the first to recognize the importance of the mother-in-law.  They incorporated a brilliant method of keeping her close but not too close.  See the car below and notice the very nicely appointed mother in law seat.  An excellent place for her to complain to her hearts content.  The messages quickly blown away by the fresh air.

Above, feast your eyes on the hood ornament attached to this Delage.  It is vintage crystal by Lalique.

This little blue number was nicknamed "The Noon Devil". Built in 1937 specifically for the French Playboy's of the day.  The steering wheel  was in the centre to allow for a female passenger on each side of the driver.  Sadly it had little commercial success and died a quick death.

Very cool place. They also had John Lennon's Rolls Royce, the 007 Aston Martin.

Next up, a visit to Cordoba.  The rains are back so we wonder if the day is going to be a washout. Not so.  Cordoba is a very special place.  An Iberian and Roman city. It was estimated that Cordoba was amongst the largest inhabited city during the 10th century.  The Great Mosque/Cathedral of Cordoba and the Roman bridge are the key areas to visit.  It has the second oldest jewish quarter *old town* in Europe.

The columns inside the mosque are an architectural feat.

We toured the city without much interference from the world of tourists that usually invade this town. Maybe the rain kept them away.  After a few hours of walking we had worked up an appetite.  Wow isn't that a surprise!  It took this long into the blog to mention food.  Our tour landed us back in the Juderia quarter.  After a careful review of the tapas menus of a few hundred restaurants we settled on a nice little cafe across from the main entrance to the walled city.

The menu offered 10 tapas and wine.  Perfect for lunch.  Key in the process of choosing this restaurant was the unique local offerings.  The most interesting being the Bull's Tail.  Slow roasted in red wine reduction it looked like Osso Bucco.  It tasted rich and delicious.  Another food box ticked off the bucket list.  I didn't even know I had that on the list.  After the tapas and a few samples of the local wine we jumped on the bus for the return trip.   Next up three days in Morocco.

In between trips i managed to squeeze in 3 rounds of golf at Torrequebrada Golf Club.  Home of the 1977 Spanish Open.  Jose-Miguel Jimenez, Malaga born PGA tour player, is often seen playing here when he is not on tour.  It is hilly but walkable, small greens and tight driving make this one a challenge.

Morocco.  6.30am.  Off we go to the port town of Algeciras to catch the fast ferry to Ceuta.  This seaport is a part of Spain even though it is on the African continent.  Our time here is limited to lunch ina beautiful stone manor by the ocean and a quick tour of the old town.  The real goal was to get through the boarder into Morocco.  The boarder was chaos.  Four lanes become one, and no one is giving an inch. we are in a bus, no one cares.  Drivers never divert their attention from the goal of staying as close to the back bumper of the car in front of them.  Four lanes become three.  The battle lines are drawn.  It is clear we are going to run over a a black Mercedes circa 1986. The Merc is beside us and refuses to yield to our size advantage.  Directly below my position on the left side of the bus, I can see a woman in full Moroccan dress sitting in the passenger seat.  She is motioning at the bus and vigorously waving her finger at her driverˋ-husband.  It seems that she is strongly suggesting that he better get in front of that bus if he knows what is good for him. The next thing we see is a very animated discussion between our soon to be introduced Moroccan guide and the aforementioned woman.  The police then get involved, there is a lot of finger pointing and gesturing.  Not much of it looks like an invitation to tea.  In the end, size matters and we proceed.  More to come in my next post regarding our Morocco adventures.  Here is a picture of the blue city to keep you wondering.

Be well