Monaco and Eze...Glamour and Glitz on the Riviera

Monaco and Monte Carlo..... the high life is front and centre here.  You don't have to go very far to see it.  In fact, if you stood in the geographic centre of the country you would be able to see both the northern and southern borders.   Monaco measures a scant two square kilometres, making it the second smallest country in the world, after the Vatican, and the most densely populated, with about 36 thousand. 30% of whom are millionaires and more than 50 are billionaires...... Of course you need to be rich to live here, Monaco rates as the most expensive real estate market in the world.  One million U.S will buy you exactly  17 square metres of luxury or 182 square ft, hopefully with a view.

Monaco, is a principality, governed under a form of a constitutional monarchy lead by Prince Albert as head of state.  In fact, the House of Grimaldi has ruled Monaco virtually uninterrupted since 1297.  The official language is French, however, Italian and English are widely spoken.  It is extremely safe in Monaco, there is a policeman for every 72 inhabitants.  The rich and famous love this state for two reasons, no tax and no paparazzi.  The later are illegal in Monaco.

The F1 race is at least as famous as its inhabitants, and certainly more visible.  It began in 1927 and is considered on of the most challenging races on the F1 schedule.  It takes a full 6 weeks to setup the circuit and an additional three weeks to remove it after the race.  This place is not very big so the traffic must be absolutely unbearable for almost three months a year.  I guess a yacht is a better choice, which would explain why there are so many of them in the luxurious harbour.  Next best would be a suite overlooking "the grand hotel hairpin"  the slowest corner on the circuit. (seen below).

A visit to the area would not be complete without seeing the Monte Carlo Casino, the Hotel de Paris and the changing of the guard.  Two of the three are easy to see, all you need is money, the third is free, but hard to see.

10 euros and showing your passport will get you in the famous 19th century casino, after that... you are on your own.  Good luck.  As to access to the Hotel de Paris....well 500 euros a night will get you a room.  If you don't have a room you are not welcome.  We put on our best chin up, eyes forward, staring blankly, you know... the "we own the place" attitude and marched through the elegant front door.  We were immediately embraced by the hotel Guest Relations Manager, aka security.  The GRM was impeccably well dressed... navy blue suit, highly polished shoes and a snappy silk tie, his manner was pleasant, but he knew we were not guests. Shorts and a tee shirt is not guest apparel, who knew!

By the way the restaurant in this hotel,  home of Chef Alain Ducasse (a rock star of the cuisine world) will set you back a cool $2000 for dinner for two.  Including a bottle of wine.. a bargain.  NOT! Sadly, they were closed for renovations so we couldn't dine there on this trip.  Maybe next year, better start saving now, LOL.

The epicentre of the principality of Monaco is the the Prince's Palace.  Constructed in 1212 by the Genovese, it is a living monument of life from the middle ages through the Renaissance to today.  At 11.55 each day, in front of the main square and the entry to the Palace, the traditional ritual of the changing of the guard takes place.  It is interesting to see, but get there early otherwise you will have to look through arms, legs, heads and shoulders to see the five minute event.  This year the main square was under renovation so the guard was on holiday.  I have offered up a shot from our visit last year so you can see the guard in action.

We stopped for a nice lunch in Monaco, Johanne had worked up a thirst so we ordered a large bottle of wine to go with our plat du jour.  I don't remember the ride home. LOL

The end of our day included a return trip to the fabulous medieval village of Eze.  Johanne and I have been here many times, however it never fails to impress.  The views, the steep narrow streets, the flowering plants chasing the sun up the old limestone walls, make this place so inviting that we always look forward to our visit.

Eze was first inhabited in 2000 BC.  Everyone has spent time here, the Greeks, the Romans, the Moors.  The longest rein by someone other than the  French, was by the House of Savoy.  Their dominance began in 1338 and is still in evidence today.  The House of Savoy ruled the territory from present day Nice to Northern Italy.  This powerful house constructed most of this village as a fortified stronghold.  It didn't stop others from conquering the picturesque village as the French, the Turks, the Spanish, and finally the French again took turns owning the place, and have done so since 1860.

It's high perch has earned it the nickname "the eagle's nest".  Today it is a great place to visit artist's workshops, restaurants or stay at the super high end Chateau Eza or the Chateau de la Chevre d'Or both beautiful 5 star Inns with rooms set along the outer walls of the village.

A great visit to fill a perfect day on the French Riviera.  Next, we tour the perched villages in the Alpes Maritimes, high above the Mediterranean. Grasse, Gourdon, St. Paul du Vence.  Talk to you soon.

Be well

Sante

Cannes, and the red carpet

The city of Cannes, in the heart of the French Riviera.  Home or more correctly, playground of the rich and famous.  Azure blue seas, infinity pools, suntans, food, cheese, wine, beautiful women and men.  Check. We have all of those.  So we must be rich and famous too!  The people are so respectful here, no one has asked for an autograph even though I do have the "movie star" hair flowing....LOL 

Last year we took a boat to Cannes, this year we take the regular 1 euro bus or walk along the sea. Each method of transport arrives in the centre of this French paradise.  Cannes, unlike Nice, is not confused about its identity. This is the quintessential French seaside resort town.   It all begins as a humble fishing village in the 2nd century,  more or less overshadowed at that time by the Lerins Islands that are an omnipresent guard to the port of Cannes.  These islands offer the consummate escape from the glamorous and crowded streets of Cannes.  A mere 20 minutes by boat, the islands boast a tranquil setting to enjoy a walk in the forest, a picnic lunch and a visit to the monastery.  We did all of the above.  Cistercian monks have inhabited the Lerins, specifically the Isle to Saint Honorat, since the 5th century.  A  monastery was built around the 10th century and still exists today.  The monks produce wine and liquor there to this day. 

The Island of Sainte-Marguerite, the larger of the four islands,  is best known for the imprisonment of the "Man in the iron mask".  While never identified, he is believed to be the twin brother of Louis the XV......(only one can inherit the throne so the other one has to go) or Pascal, a philosopher of the times enemy of royalty or else just one of the many illegitimate sons of the king.  The most common version of the story is that the extravagant King Louis XV was so concerned about his livelihood that he hid his brother as far from Paris as he could .  After all, if the people knew there was another heir to the throne, the French revolution might have had a different outcome.  While in Cannes, you must not miss out on a trip to these islands!    

Cannes, like the rest of the Mediterranean, had it's battles over ownership, Romans, Saracens, etc.  In fact the monks took control of Cannes for awhile.  

The city of Cannes is named after the "roseaux" or reeds, which surrounded the areas beaches.  Cannes translates from ancient Greek meaning reeds.  This swampy beach area forced the development of the first village of Cannes high above the Mediterranean in the area known as Le Suquet.  Puts a whole new value to swamp land as today Cannes is among the most expensive real estate on the Cote d'Azur.

The Film festival, which helped to create the lure of the area, was to start in 1939. Hitler stopped before it started.  1946 marked the date of the first festival.  It was a big success and has been every year since.   

Fun facts!

Cannes boasts the best Oysters on the Riviera

Go to the Intercontinental Hotel- see the dome inside(modelled after a gypsy's breast)

 Renting a mattress at  Palm Beach will set you back 20 euro for the day.

Population 74,000,  January weather is 13C July is 27C

The film festival Red Carpet is 60 metres long, changed 3 times per day.  1500 lucky winners, through a draw, get to surround it as the stars walk it.

15% of Hotel business for the year is done during the 12 days of the festival

Almost 4600 journalists attend (second largest event viewed after the Olympics)

Screening of 1200 films

200,000 actors, directors and producers attend

Cost 20 million euro to produce the event.  50% comes from public funding

700 police officers are added for security to the stars

Yachts for entertainment and negotiating movie deals contracts are a common site.  The cost is not common.   12 days rentals will set one back 130,000 to 400,000 euros, and that is just for moorage!

Each well known hotel has 15,000 bottles of Champagne to greet customers

Hotel Martinez, now a Hyatt hotel,  is 1,500 euro per night for a basic room........and I am not lying......

Take a stroll through the Marche de Fortville,  one of the best markets on the Rivera.   From the moment you enter, the flavours of Provence stand up to greet your senses.  Fresh cut flowers,  fragrant herbs, fruits, veg, the sounds of happy people trading with their favourite farmers.  This market has it all, fresh caught fish, organic butcher's, cheese makers etc.  Six days a week from 8 until 1 you will find this energetic stalls open to your needs.  Once through the market you will find yourself on Rue Meynadier where you can continue  your culinary experience or shop for the latest fashions.  Famous patisseries, rub shoulders with Christian Dior, Gucci, Channel, etc.  The vacant walls of many of the towns century old buildings are adorned with murals offering a permanent reminder of the glamor hosted by Cannes most famous event.

In the top corner of the picture above you can see a Riviera specialty.  Stuffed pasta. Tortellini like pieces filled with Daube.  A rustic stew that is eaten as a hearty lunch or in this case served in a pasta.  Either way it is comfort food that is deeply satisfying, especially when enjoying a nice pichet of Rouge, Rose or Blanc.

Art of all kinds is present in Cannes.  This week also marks the start of the TV version of the Cannes film festival.  The producers and broadcasters from around the globe trying to find the next big show for the coming season.  

After a morning in the Marche Forville, it is customary to stop for a verre de vin rose and a small bite.  We found a little place, 20 seats, all locals except 2.  The owner, above was quick with the wine and a pression (draught beer) for moi.    We did find many ships in the harbour, 150 feet +.  Just in case you thought I was kidding about the rich part.

Sadly, not all was good on the Riviera.  We experienced a massive storm, flooding out many areas around us.  Many businesses are still digging out two days later.  Several cars were washed into the sea.  Those seen below were pushed some 500 feet down the road and over a bridge, only stopped by a building as rushing water feverishly fought its way to the Med.

Johanne and I ventured about 2 km walk to the west of our hotel to the village of La Bocca.  This town was just crushed by the rush of water.  Every single business and/or house was damaged.  I am sure those of  you reading this post from Calgary can appreciate that hardship that water can cause.
20 people died in that flood, most of them trying to get their car out of their garage...what a shame!

We were lucky, our hotel is high above the sea and was not affected by the storm, with the exception of losing the Internet and phone service for almost 2 weeks.  The sun came out after the rain.  Here is a view from our suite!

We host a happy hour each night at the hotel for our group of travellers,  I am happy to report we didn't miss a single minute of our 5pm to 7pm ritual.  Canadians are a thirsty bunch.

In the days to come we will be visiting Monaco, Monte Carlo and Eze.  Can't wait to tell you about it.

Be well

Sante

Paris and new friends!

Sept 27th, 2015

Can you believe it has been a year this week since we last visited the French Riviera!! It also marks almost as long since I have posted anything related to our travel.  No excuses this time.  I read somewhere recently that the majority of blogger's stop posting within the first year of writing. I lasted a little better then the average.  Hooray for me!  Before you go on, I encourage you to read the previous two posts in order to refresh your perspective regarding some of the things I will refer to in the next few updates.  For the record I did...very enjoyable.  LOL

For those that have been wondering if we simply stopped traveling, let me assure you we have not.  Since the leaving the French Riviera, we have been to Portugal twice and Tunisia. As well as a four month tour starting in Montreal, Quebec, heading west through Ontario, Alberta and British Columbia before finishing in Rancho Mirage, California.  We visited with many of you that read the blog.  It was great to catch up in person.  A wonderful summer in Canada!!

We are going back to Portugal in November 2015, so stay tuned for an update regarding our activities later in the year.  For now, I aim to share a few stories to get you up to speed, with particular focus on revisiting the top 10 list from last year's visit to the Riviera.  You might remember that our 2014 group, provided a list rating the places we explored.  I wonder if the group this year will provide similar comments. Time will tell.

It is very strange to be traveling without a special friend this time.  I have had an empty feeling since departing LAX some 40 hours ago.  So saddened by this loneliness, simply too distraught to sleep throughout the 9+ hour flight to Charles De Gaulle.  Too uncomfortable to talk about the difficult decision that has created this vacuum.  You know the feeling one gets when something is missing, the anxiousness, the stress, the helpless sensitivity that life has changed forever.  Olivier and Natalie, our new friends from Paris, who have opened their home to us during this difficult time, have also been reluctant to bring up the subject.  27 hours after leaving Rancho Mirage, I still had not been able to sleep.  Did I make the wrong decision?    Olivier, reminds me to look away several times on the journey to their home, knowing the landscape would only amplify a heartfelt reminder of the chasm this accord has created.  You see for the first time in two years I have left my GOLF CLUBS  at home.  LOL I bet you thought it was Johanne I left behind.  THAT would never happen!  OK, I am finished the kidding around.  I just couldn't resist having a little fun.

Johanne and I are spending a few days in Paris before connecting with the group in Cannes.  Yesterday, we managed to remain upright until 7.30 local time, which puts us at about the 27-28 hour mark for being awake.  In spite of the long day, we had a wonderful lunch overlooking the village of Montmorency, followed by a visit to the Chateau Chantilly.  Our hosts introduced us to this Chateau as our residence for the next few days.  Life is good.  Of course I am kidding...... we did however have a wonderful walk throughout the grounds of this spectacular piece of French history.

Olivier and Natalie are our hosts above.  We met these fine people about three hours earlier at the arrivals area of Charles De Gaulle airport.  Johanne had many conversations via email with Natalie over the past year, as they worked through the merits of a house exchange for 2016.  Through the course of those discussions, we decided to come to Paris, en route to the French Riviera, for a visit.  Olivier and Natalie insisted on inviting us to their home as well as picking us up upon our arrival in Paris.  Needless to say this is exceptionally generous, given we had never met!

After collecting our luggage we headed for the exit to meet the people behind the email voices , hoping to match our shared photos with real faces.  The doors opened, we identified a smile connected to a vigorously waving hand.... it was as if we had been friends for a lifetime.  Conversation was warm and engaging immediately!  Some English, a lot of French, we filled the air with words for the next 30+ minutes as we made our way to their home.  That we can meet and enjoy each other so completely in such a manner, truly gives faith to humanity.  Olivier and Natalie showed us their village, entertained us over lunch and then the tour of the aforementioned Chateau.  The next two days were marvellous!  While our hosts worked during the day, we headed into Paris for a visit, specifically,  St. Germain, our favourite area.

 Les "Deux Magots", famous cafe where many of the worlds greatest writers could be seen.

       Book and picture sellers along the River Seine.

After a day exploring we had the pleasure of enjoying the "chef" talents of our host Natalie and the fabulous wine cellar of Olivier.  The soup, Chestnut with Foie Gras and Truffle Oil, Slow roasted lamb and veg, cheese and a 4 part desert was as good as any Michelin starred restaurant.  

We had a delightful time with our new friends, but it is time to get to the French Riviera to begin our next adventure.  Luggage in hand, we boarded the Train toward Gare du Nord, from where we took the Paris Metro Line 4 to D'enfer-Rochefault, then the Paris Metro 6 to the Orly Airport express train.  The Metro is exceptionally easy to use, even with luggage.  The Orly train was the only hiccup.  The system experienced a complete failure, stranding train after train of anxious commuters rushing to catch flights.  Most of them will be late.  We were shuffled from the platform to a spot outside awaiting a bus, or hopefully buses, to finish the trip to the airport.  They never came.  About an hour later the Orly train was rebooted, the crush of people and luggage jamming their way frantically into the waiting train cars.  Anther lesson learned....if you take the metro to any airport, give yourself lots of time....we did....

With no further delay we are on our way to Nice Airport!  Next post will be Cannes.

Be Well

Sante