Computer challenges have slowed my reporting.  I am pleased to announce I am back in business, so to speak.  April 25th, 8.15am we jump on the city bus, route #13 heading east to Valetta.  It is full with the morning commute.  The driver takes cash and gives change...how about that.  As an added bonus, the fare of 1.50 euro,  is good for the whole day, anywhere on the island. as many times as you want!  Upon arrival some 20 minutes later we are greeted by the fortress walls and a grand arch.

Entering the city you just feel you are somewhere special.  The main street is wide, by walled city standards and inviting.  There is so much history here, it is hard to choose what to visit first.  The Malta experience is a good start.  This film chronicles Malta's history and provides a benchmark for planning our visit.

St. John's cathedral is next.  That's it above.  I talked about the Knights in my last post, well this is the order's pride and joy.  A baroque masterpiece filled with riches donated by the Grand Masters of the order throughout their 250 year rein.

Two of the most important pieces are works by Caravaggio.  Some say he painted these works as thank you for being allowed to hide out in Malta. He escaped from Rome due to a small brawl he was involved in where someone was killed.  Old habits die hard as he was involved in a large brawl in Malta in 1608 and had to run for it again.  The lineup to get in the cathedral was long so we tried to go all Caravaggio on them to see if we could sneak in, no luck,  Johanne is still there painting something to get out.  I've seen her painting, she couyld be there a long long time........ LOL  I'm off to the National Museum of Archeology.  I will pick her up later. Just kidding.

The Archeology Museum is something.  It is here you will get an appreciation as to just how old this island is.  Neolithic to be exact. 5000 AD, way before the pyramids and Stonehenge.  A visit to Malta would not be complete without going to the temples and this museum will help you to understand why.  The "sleeping lady" is one of the pieces of history you will see and learn about.  Here she is, direct from 3000 BC! Found in the Hypogeum, an underground  temple, the only one in the world!  This blog is not meant to be a history course, but there is so much here,it is hard not to talk about it.

The museum speaks of temples of Hagar Qim, the oldest known man made religious structures on earth.  3600-3200 AD.  Amazing place.  Here are some shots from our visit there.

Next up, Casa Rocca Picolla.  The only privately owned palace in Malta open to the public. Built in the 16th century by Don Pietro LaRocca, a Knight of Malta.  It is now the home of the 9th Marquis de Piro and his family.  We met the family during our tour.

The picture above is from the palace's bomb shelter that was used to protect the family and villager's during the second world war.  It is thought that Malta had more bombs dropped on it then London did during the blitz.  This is one of many shelters to be found throughout the island.

Leaving the palace, we were lucky enough to stumble on a noon production from the Malta opera company in the church of St Francis of Assisi. The beautiful sounds echoing through the ancient walls of the church!  The performance included many composers, the duet's performance of Puccini was spell bounding.  I admit to being intoxicated..  It is as if the spirit of Malta itself was powering the sound of the music. Completely mesmerizing!

I could go on and on, there are just some many fantastic places to see.  The day was full.  However we need to head back to the hotel to get ready for a night of traditional Maltese dining with our very own hostess, Tilly.   Arriving earlier then we anticipated,  we have some time to kill.  As luck would have it the seaside bar across the street is having happy hour.  Nicely settled with a cool pitcher of draft at our mercy, we celebrate a day well done.  Nice view to boot.(see below)

Halfway through our libation, we strike up a conversation with the couple sitting next to us.  Ron and Irene, she from Brussels, he from USA, now living in Malta at least while the weather in their other homes is not up to standard.  We share our stories in French and English.  You can guess who is speaking which.  Ron invites me for a game of golf.  Malta has but one course.  With such a short schedule I had to decline. Too bad.  Next time for sure.  Time to meet Tilly for our Maltese dining experience we bid goodbye to Ron and Irene, emails exchanged, we will stay in touch.

Tilly arrives as scheduled with David, her trusty navigator.  The restaurant venue has been changed.  Upon hearing of the previously selected restaurant for our Fenkata, Tilly's numerous relatives almost crashed the cell service, debating which restaurant was best.  The resulting debate pronounced .......Charlie's Inn near Bugibba, the victor.  This place somewhat out of the way has been serving up Fenkana (Rabbit) for 50 years.

 This dish above consists of Bigilla, which is Djerba beans, garlic and herbs mashed.  Delicious! Bebbux or Snails also in garlic, and a Tomato aljoli also with garlic. served with Maltese bread and "air biscuits"  Too good...... I have eatten too much already.

Second up Stuffat tai-fenek or Rabbit stew with Spaghetti. Washed down with a nice red of course.

 Then two rabbits arrive, one barbecued and the second in the traditional sauce.  Did I mention that they serve every part, head., heart, liver.... it is all there. Waste not, want not.  We devoured it all except the head.  No one was that hungry.

Fantastic meal with great company.  On the way back to our hotel, we made a quick stop at the Scotsman Pub for a nightcap with Tilly's childhood friend and proprietor. This establishment is found in the heart of Paceville.  It was late and it seemed that all of Malta's under 30 set was out imbibing.  Two corner wine shops by day,  transformed into corner bars at night, have spilled their customers out onto the street and across the one we wish to drive.  Tilly, Moses-like, parts the throng and gently squeezes into a spot.  We have our nightcap and call it a day.  We love Malta.

Tomorrow we are off to the medieval village of M'Dina and a change of accommodations.

Be Well

Ciao