The rest of the French Riviera...or all the other thiings

As the second annual visit to this region comes to an end.....a theme is beginning to evolve.  People, our people, really love the French Riviera!  The top ten list provides a snapshot of addresses to visit, fantastic markets,  historic villages, beautiful majestic natural geography.

Some places I didn't really dive into much, such as: Les Gorges du Verdon.  The grand canyon of Europe.  Breathtaking views without a single village in sight.  A place of extreme nature, hiking, kayaking, camping are the focus in this area.  A group of us took the time to travel to this marvelous switchback riddled road, to capture a part of France you would not expect.

At the end of the road, a medieval village called Moustiers Sainte Marie.  Hugged by ancient walls, divided by a narrow fast running river, this village is best known for earthenware tiles, with over 14 workshops sprinkled throughout the village.

  Handmade plates adorn many of the walls and doors, creating an artful invitation to each small street as you wander up toward the centre of town.  Two rocky mountains stand above and to each side of the village, casting a welcoming shadow on the town in the heat of the summer.  If you look closely you will see a chain that connects the two rocky crests, supporting a star hung there by a knight of the Crusades.  The food is amazing here too!  We found a little bistro tucked into a small street.  Da Vinci's had 20 seats all but two full when we arrived..... lucky for us.  

The menu sounded perfect, the taste was even better.....

Hungry yet?  We also enjoyed a nice Rose, from Provence of course.  I can still smell the foie gras.....

Speaking of food, in October, we Canadians celebrate food and coming together..... of course I am referring to Thanksgiving.  Well we have 60-70 Canadians here in the Riviera, they like turkey, we like turkey, so we must have it.  Johanne and I made a mad tour throughout the town of Cannes, in search of a restaurateur capable of serving up a Thanksgiving dinner that would equal the taste and appetite of the group.  There is an art to arranging such an undertaking.  First, every single restaurant owner will say no!  You must start with the obligatory, Bonjour.  Then gently approach the foreign concept of turkey for dinner when it is not Christmas.  If you got that far in the discussion then the second roadblock would be presented.  The chef would say, "I can do it, but there are no turkeys at this time of year."   followed by the question "How about big chickens"?  To which we... correction, Johanne would reply, "we just left the Marche Forville, where no less then 5 Boucheries had turkey proudly displayed in their coolers"  In the end we found a fantastic venue.  

Turkey dinner with all the fixings!  Everyone came.... had a huge 3 course feast including unlimited wine for 20 euros each!   I should point out, this is our second French Riviera Thanksgiving dinner.  Last year's event was held in St. Laurent du Var with equally impressive results.  For the record, I did offer to join the chef's in their kitchen to teach them my world famous turkey stuffing recipe.  That resulted in the third NO of the negotiation.  

I wrote about attending the Auto show last year.  Well, a few of the guys from this year wanted to go.  I figured it would be a piece of cake this year.  I knew the route, the venue, basically like riding a bike.  Once you know how, you never forget.  So on the fateful day, three of us headed out.  Shuttle to Cannes, board the 200 bus to Nice, ride until we get to the stop after the St. Laurent du Var train station.  Walk to the venue.  Check on all of the above.  Everything worked according to plan...well almost everything.  The auto show changed venues.  Crap!!!  In bad French we managed to find out that the new venue was at the stadium 10KMs away.  We made arrangements for a taxi, arriving without further incident.  The show was considerably larger then last year.  We had a great day.  Except for the return!!!!!! This stadium is home to the Nice football team, seats 20-30 thousand people on a regular basis, and most importantly has absolutely no transit service.  No Taxi stand.  No hope.  We wandered into the Museum of Sport, where we found a nice young woman who spoke much better English then our French.  She directed us to a bus stop not to far away.  We walked, and walked, and walked.  No bus.  10,000 steps later, thanks to some fitness monitoring technology, we found ourselves back at the stadium.  I approached a traffic security officer, not a real cop, more like a venue security type, to ask further directions.  He asked, "Do you want a ride to "La Promenade des Anglais?"  "oui" I responded.  Within minutes, we are shuffled into an Audi following a Mercedes full of lost tourists like us, for an F1 style race through the city streets of Nice.  Our driver paddle-shifting his way between obstacles in an effort to stay exactly two inches from the bumper of his friend in the Mercedes.  30 euros later we were happily deposited directly in front of the station where our #200 bus back to Cannes was boarding.  What a day.  Cool cars, racing in the streets and we will make it back in time for happy hour with a new story to tell, grinning from ear to ear.  

We have discovered so many things visiting the Riviera, it is regretful that I can not record all the details here.  One of the activities we most often receive comments on is the Happy Hour.  

While traveling with our groups we always arrange for a meeting from 5-7 each night.  This allows everyone to swap stories on places they have visited,  catch up on the news from us regarding things to do, and of course have a glass of wine, beer, water etc.  The happy hour in France has a twist.  We managed to corner a space off the pool deck, with a view to the Med no less,  where we are able to bring our own choice of beverage and a snack to share among the group.  Well, needless to say this activity became the place to see and be seen.   The food on offer became more glamorous as the days passed.  The more people explored the markets and the bistro's of the region, the better the appetizers got.   With a view like this....good food and wine, how can one go wrong.

 There is so much to like about this place, we can't wait to go back.  Our guest felt the same.  The feedback from so many was simply wonderful.  Our last happy hour included every single guest on the tour.  We even had a musical performance from three of our guests!!!!  Many songs were enjoyed...they even wrote one for the group. 

An amazing place.... come join us next year to feel the magic.

Be well

Sante

Grasse, Gourdon and St Paul du Vence or Heaven

Before I talk about the green heart of the French Riviera,  I thought you might want some details regarding the flood in Cannes.  To put the torrent of rain in perspective, we received the equivalent of an Olympic swimming pool every 8 seconds for almost two hours!!! There was as much rain in 2 hours than the whole 3 months average.  That helps to understand why trains didn't run for several days, buses stopped in some areas, Internet and phone services were non-existent, banks and their instant teller machines remained closed, stores and restaurants  could only accept cash....which no one could get.  To add to the tragedy, many Boulangeries and Patisseries did not and could not offer the one item that would make all the problems smaller.  No Baguettes!!!!  For almost two full days the village of La Bocca was  without their morning addiction.  The humanity,  panic,  flour withdrawal, emergency measures called for.  In the end calm was restored, Baguette Gate was solved. 

Now it is time to get up the hill to Grasse.

  

Grasse, the green heart of the French Riviera, is the perfume capital of the world.   

Mimosa, Jasmine, Honeysuckle surround the village and fill the air with a pleasant freshness.   These flowers, hand picked each morning, help contributing to the 2 tons of flowers required to produce 1 kilo of perfume essence.   Which serves to explain why perfume  is so expensive.  A bottle of Perfume contains 20% essence, eau parfume contains 15%, eau de toilette contains 10%, cologne contains 2-5%.  By the way, men are winners in the perfume department.  It seems that the male skin is rough and more oily which is a perfect place for fragrance..  Hence cologne, Cheap and long lasting on men........no need for expensive stuff!  Women's skin, being more delicate requires regular application of perfume.  Is it science or marketing?  "Science" says Fragonard, the perfumery we visited.   

Blending scents is an art, below is the office of the "Noses" at Fragonard.  The title given to those specialists that have achieved the distinction  of being one of only 50 in the world.  They take their station at the organ to create the unique combination of scents for each perfume.

Grasse, while famous for perfume, used to be known for something else.  Something that created an entirely different smell.  In the 12th century, the region was noted as an excellent tannery, utilizing the small canal that runs through the town centre.  This is not an environmentally friendly pursuit.  It also stinks.... however, one has to make a living.  The industry flourished.  At the height of the Renaissance, the tannery started making gloves, handbags and belts, at the same time the perfume industry was developing.  To expand, local merchants started making perfumed gloves.  When the Queen of Italy, Catherine de Medici, started wearing them at the Italian court, a fashion boom began.  The gloves died off (like Catherine De Medicis and her wicked ways) but perfume prevailed and Grasse started to smell a lot better.. no more tannery.

Grasse is not just perfume, there are many small streets to explore, a beautiful Romanesque church, art and food.  The main square is filled with local foods. The air is perfumed with fresh baked bread, roasted chickens, garlic, fruits... well I think you get the picture.  After all it is France.  Interesting side story, one of France's most famous singers, known as the National diva of France, died in Grasse.  I found this to be extremely interesting simply because there is no mention of her, anywhere that I could see.  Who do you think it was? I will give you a hint.   La vie en Rose.

Ring a bell?  If you said; Edith Piaf, you are correct.  Legend has it that a friend secretly drove her back to Paris so her fans would think she died in her birth city.  It must have been a long drive with only a dead person for company.  Crazy!

Now, Johanne and I vividly remember Grasse for something completely different....we were robbed there 15 years ago and we met "Inspector Clouzot". We had stopped in Grasse for an overnight and we parked on the street bringing only our overnight bag. The next morning, our luggage was GONE from the trunk with most of our clothes along with our airline tickets (yes they still had paper tickets back then!). First time it ever happened! So we go to the commissariat and meet this very pleasant policemen who, after numerous plaisanteries with Johanne, claims that he will get our luggage back !
Our instructions are to call him before we leave for Italy to see if he was successful. Can you imagine our surprise when he tells us the next day that it was found? When does that ever happen? So Inspector Clouzot spied on who was opening trunks the very next night and caught our robber!!!!!
When we came back to the police station to marvel at his prowess, he presents us with our luggage with all my clothes intact and all of Johanne's GONE...........conclusion being that frenchmen are much smaller than I and they don't like golf clothes much or we were robbed by a crossdresser........

Today's trip is all about the mountain villages of the French Riviera.  Less than 25 km from the sea, we arrive at Gourdon.   Often referred to as the balcony of the French Riviera, perched on the pinnacle of the mountain, this 16th century centre was established for the protection and security of the Feudal community which it towered over.  

With only one entrance to the village, it was a very safe place.  Many of our group fell in love with this village.  One commented: "it makes me want to be French!".  If you were a fan of the movie "Les Miserables" filmed in 2012, you might recognise this place as it was used for parts of the filming of this historic story.

Last stop for the day, and my personal favourite was St. Paul de Vence.  We visited here many times last year and still. I just love this place.  It has everything one would want in a medieval town,  walled village, narrow streets, interesting history, views, food, art, wine.  Did I miss something?

 Well, as you approach the southern gate of the village you will be met by a group of elders playing the French national pastime.  No it is not drinking wine, complaining or football..... it is Boules.  The game is also popular in Italy, Malta and Croatia, but it is almost a religion in France.

They even have a bread made in France called Boule, a round ball like item, that is claimed to be the reason a baker is called a Boulanger, and the bakery is called a Boulangerie. The thing is, one is pronounced bul, which sounds like ball.  The other means "ball."  I think there is some kind of "ball" worship thing going on here...

Johanne can be seen walking across the Boules playing field, with the Cafe de la Place in the background.  The Cafe to Place is important to the game.  If you were to get tricked into a game of Boules with the local sharks, and you should happen to get Fanny'd  (that is you do not score a single point) then you are required to enter the bar, buy the victor a drink and kiss fanny in the appropriate spot.  Fanny is positioned at the exact spot in the bar so everyone can watch.  I did not play Boules!

When you are there, tour the magnificant art studio's and stop here for lunch.  They serve many different typically provencial dishes.  Each one will make you wish you could come back every day.


 

Next time I will fill in the blanks for the rest of our visit to the Riviera before departing for Portugal.

Be Well

Sante

Monaco and Eze...Glamour and Glitz on the Riviera

Monaco and Monte Carlo..... the high life is front and centre here.  You don't have to go very far to see it.  In fact, if you stood in the geographic centre of the country you would be able to see both the northern and southern borders.   Monaco measures a scant two square kilometres, making it the second smallest country in the world, after the Vatican, and the most densely populated, with about 36 thousand. 30% of whom are millionaires and more than 50 are billionaires...... Of course you need to be rich to live here, Monaco rates as the most expensive real estate market in the world.  One million U.S will buy you exactly  17 square metres of luxury or 182 square ft, hopefully with a view.

Monaco, is a principality, governed under a form of a constitutional monarchy lead by Prince Albert as head of state.  In fact, the House of Grimaldi has ruled Monaco virtually uninterrupted since 1297.  The official language is French, however, Italian and English are widely spoken.  It is extremely safe in Monaco, there is a policeman for every 72 inhabitants.  The rich and famous love this state for two reasons, no tax and no paparazzi.  The later are illegal in Monaco.

The F1 race is at least as famous as its inhabitants, and certainly more visible.  It began in 1927 and is considered on of the most challenging races on the F1 schedule.  It takes a full 6 weeks to setup the circuit and an additional three weeks to remove it after the race.  This place is not very big so the traffic must be absolutely unbearable for almost three months a year.  I guess a yacht is a better choice, which would explain why there are so many of them in the luxurious harbour.  Next best would be a suite overlooking "the grand hotel hairpin"  the slowest corner on the circuit. (seen below).

A visit to the area would not be complete without seeing the Monte Carlo Casino, the Hotel de Paris and the changing of the guard.  Two of the three are easy to see, all you need is money, the third is free, but hard to see.

10 euros and showing your passport will get you in the famous 19th century casino, after that... you are on your own.  Good luck.  As to access to the Hotel de Paris....well 500 euros a night will get you a room.  If you don't have a room you are not welcome.  We put on our best chin up, eyes forward, staring blankly, you know... the "we own the place" attitude and marched through the elegant front door.  We were immediately embraced by the hotel Guest Relations Manager, aka security.  The GRM was impeccably well dressed... navy blue suit, highly polished shoes and a snappy silk tie, his manner was pleasant, but he knew we were not guests. Shorts and a tee shirt is not guest apparel, who knew!

By the way the restaurant in this hotel,  home of Chef Alain Ducasse (a rock star of the cuisine world) will set you back a cool $2000 for dinner for two.  Including a bottle of wine.. a bargain.  NOT! Sadly, they were closed for renovations so we couldn't dine there on this trip.  Maybe next year, better start saving now, LOL.

The epicentre of the principality of Monaco is the the Prince's Palace.  Constructed in 1212 by the Genovese, it is a living monument of life from the middle ages through the Renaissance to today.  At 11.55 each day, in front of the main square and the entry to the Palace, the traditional ritual of the changing of the guard takes place.  It is interesting to see, but get there early otherwise you will have to look through arms, legs, heads and shoulders to see the five minute event.  This year the main square was under renovation so the guard was on holiday.  I have offered up a shot from our visit last year so you can see the guard in action.

We stopped for a nice lunch in Monaco, Johanne had worked up a thirst so we ordered a large bottle of wine to go with our plat du jour.  I don't remember the ride home. LOL

The end of our day included a return trip to the fabulous medieval village of Eze.  Johanne and I have been here many times, however it never fails to impress.  The views, the steep narrow streets, the flowering plants chasing the sun up the old limestone walls, make this place so inviting that we always look forward to our visit.

Eze was first inhabited in 2000 BC.  Everyone has spent time here, the Greeks, the Romans, the Moors.  The longest rein by someone other than the  French, was by the House of Savoy.  Their dominance began in 1338 and is still in evidence today.  The House of Savoy ruled the territory from present day Nice to Northern Italy.  This powerful house constructed most of this village as a fortified stronghold.  It didn't stop others from conquering the picturesque village as the French, the Turks, the Spanish, and finally the French again took turns owning the place, and have done so since 1860.

It's high perch has earned it the nickname "the eagle's nest".  Today it is a great place to visit artist's workshops, restaurants or stay at the super high end Chateau Eza or the Chateau de la Chevre d'Or both beautiful 5 star Inns with rooms set along the outer walls of the village.

A great visit to fill a perfect day on the French Riviera.  Next, we tour the perched villages in the Alpes Maritimes, high above the Mediterranean. Grasse, Gourdon, St. Paul du Vence.  Talk to you soon.

Be well

Sante

Cannes, and the red carpet

The city of Cannes, in the heart of the French Riviera.  Home or more correctly, playground of the rich and famous.  Azure blue seas, infinity pools, suntans, food, cheese, wine, beautiful women and men.  Check. We have all of those.  So we must be rich and famous too!  The people are so respectful here, no one has asked for an autograph even though I do have the "movie star" hair flowing....LOL 

Last year we took a boat to Cannes, this year we take the regular 1 euro bus or walk along the sea. Each method of transport arrives in the centre of this French paradise.  Cannes, unlike Nice, is not confused about its identity. This is the quintessential French seaside resort town.   It all begins as a humble fishing village in the 2nd century,  more or less overshadowed at that time by the Lerins Islands that are an omnipresent guard to the port of Cannes.  These islands offer the consummate escape from the glamorous and crowded streets of Cannes.  A mere 20 minutes by boat, the islands boast a tranquil setting to enjoy a walk in the forest, a picnic lunch and a visit to the monastery.  We did all of the above.  Cistercian monks have inhabited the Lerins, specifically the Isle to Saint Honorat, since the 5th century.  A  monastery was built around the 10th century and still exists today.  The monks produce wine and liquor there to this day. 

The Island of Sainte-Marguerite, the larger of the four islands,  is best known for the imprisonment of the "Man in the iron mask".  While never identified, he is believed to be the twin brother of Louis the XV......(only one can inherit the throne so the other one has to go) or Pascal, a philosopher of the times enemy of royalty or else just one of the many illegitimate sons of the king.  The most common version of the story is that the extravagant King Louis XV was so concerned about his livelihood that he hid his brother as far from Paris as he could .  After all, if the people knew there was another heir to the throne, the French revolution might have had a different outcome.  While in Cannes, you must not miss out on a trip to these islands!    

Cannes, like the rest of the Mediterranean, had it's battles over ownership, Romans, Saracens, etc.  In fact the monks took control of Cannes for awhile.  

The city of Cannes is named after the "roseaux" or reeds, which surrounded the areas beaches.  Cannes translates from ancient Greek meaning reeds.  This swampy beach area forced the development of the first village of Cannes high above the Mediterranean in the area known as Le Suquet.  Puts a whole new value to swamp land as today Cannes is among the most expensive real estate on the Cote d'Azur.

The Film festival, which helped to create the lure of the area, was to start in 1939. Hitler stopped before it started.  1946 marked the date of the first festival.  It was a big success and has been every year since.   

Fun facts!

Cannes boasts the best Oysters on the Riviera

Go to the Intercontinental Hotel- see the dome inside(modelled after a gypsy's breast)

 Renting a mattress at  Palm Beach will set you back 20 euro for the day.

Population 74,000,  January weather is 13C July is 27C

The film festival Red Carpet is 60 metres long, changed 3 times per day.  1500 lucky winners, through a draw, get to surround it as the stars walk it.

15% of Hotel business for the year is done during the 12 days of the festival

Almost 4600 journalists attend (second largest event viewed after the Olympics)

Screening of 1200 films

200,000 actors, directors and producers attend

Cost 20 million euro to produce the event.  50% comes from public funding

700 police officers are added for security to the stars

Yachts for entertainment and negotiating movie deals contracts are a common site.  The cost is not common.   12 days rentals will set one back 130,000 to 400,000 euros, and that is just for moorage!

Each well known hotel has 15,000 bottles of Champagne to greet customers

Hotel Martinez, now a Hyatt hotel,  is 1,500 euro per night for a basic room........and I am not lying......

Take a stroll through the Marche de Fortville,  one of the best markets on the Rivera.   From the moment you enter, the flavours of Provence stand up to greet your senses.  Fresh cut flowers,  fragrant herbs, fruits, veg, the sounds of happy people trading with their favourite farmers.  This market has it all, fresh caught fish, organic butcher's, cheese makers etc.  Six days a week from 8 until 1 you will find this energetic stalls open to your needs.  Once through the market you will find yourself on Rue Meynadier where you can continue  your culinary experience or shop for the latest fashions.  Famous patisseries, rub shoulders with Christian Dior, Gucci, Channel, etc.  The vacant walls of many of the towns century old buildings are adorned with murals offering a permanent reminder of the glamor hosted by Cannes most famous event.

In the top corner of the picture above you can see a Riviera specialty.  Stuffed pasta. Tortellini like pieces filled with Daube.  A rustic stew that is eaten as a hearty lunch or in this case served in a pasta.  Either way it is comfort food that is deeply satisfying, especially when enjoying a nice pichet of Rouge, Rose or Blanc.

Art of all kinds is present in Cannes.  This week also marks the start of the TV version of the Cannes film festival.  The producers and broadcasters from around the globe trying to find the next big show for the coming season.  

After a morning in the Marche Forville, it is customary to stop for a verre de vin rose and a small bite.  We found a little place, 20 seats, all locals except 2.  The owner, above was quick with the wine and a pression (draught beer) for moi.    We did find many ships in the harbour, 150 feet +.  Just in case you thought I was kidding about the rich part.

Sadly, not all was good on the Riviera.  We experienced a massive storm, flooding out many areas around us.  Many businesses are still digging out two days later.  Several cars were washed into the sea.  Those seen below were pushed some 500 feet down the road and over a bridge, only stopped by a building as rushing water feverishly fought its way to the Med.

Johanne and I ventured about 2 km walk to the west of our hotel to the village of La Bocca.  This town was just crushed by the rush of water.  Every single business and/or house was damaged.  I am sure those of  you reading this post from Calgary can appreciate that hardship that water can cause.
20 people died in that flood, most of them trying to get their car out of their garage...what a shame!

We were lucky, our hotel is high above the sea and was not affected by the storm, with the exception of losing the Internet and phone service for almost 2 weeks.  The sun came out after the rain.  Here is a view from our suite!

We host a happy hour each night at the hotel for our group of travellers,  I am happy to report we didn't miss a single minute of our 5pm to 7pm ritual.  Canadians are a thirsty bunch.

In the days to come we will be visiting Monaco, Monte Carlo and Eze.  Can't wait to tell you about it.

Be well

Sante