Monday, March 31, 2014

The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain. While that is no doubt a great linguistic tool,  it is not true this week.  It rained Saturday, the first day of rain since we left Portugal.  I have to admit it was comforting to see.  Almost made us feel like we were back in Vancouver.  OK now that the rain is gone we are back to the good stuff.  After all sunshine is way better than the rain.

This week we revisited the town of Mijas.  The wheel chair had to go back and we wanted to pick up a few euros doing the taxi thing.  Kidding.  The last time we were there it was cold and windy so we missed a few spots.  Glad we went.  It is such a quaint little village.  We shared our visit with friends from France.  Jean and Monique live very near Le Mans, the home of the famous auto race.  We will be visiting them there later this year.




We had an enjoyable afternoon.

The big visit of the week was back to Torrox, this time for a thorough investigation of this mountainside village.  Torrox has an interesting history.  Starting back in the 10th century.  The area, ruled by the Moors, had a governmental controversy.  The king died, his child was too young to take over as the natural heir to the throne.  So they did the next best thing and appointed the kings wife's lover to serve as the acting king.  His name was Muhammed  ben Ali Amir, better known as Almanzor.   Not only was he a stud in the sack, it turned out that he was quite the industrialist,putting Torrox on the map as a must stop destination on the silk road.


 Enough of that lets move on to 2014.  Torrox is visited by tourists mostly due to the fact that it has remained true to its Andalusian roots.  A co-op spirit exists here throughout everything the community does.  They have a co-op bakery and olive oil production business to name a few.  The town also has competitions by street, in the growing and display of flowers.  Below is last year's winning street not quite in full bloom yet as this year's competition is a few months away.




The town has many more stories, however we came to eat. 8 courses to be exact.  The meal was served at the mountaintop home of a local chef with the help of some ladies from the village. (the co-op).  We are told that the hardest part of establishing this business venture was deciding whose recipes to use.  Since each one had a slightly different method of producing the local flavours, the battle was on to choose the best.  However, today they just cooked.

Our host greeted us with a Malaga wine.   Johanne pictured below enjoying the wine and the view.

This local sweet wine.  Tasted more like port.  After making our way to the outdoor dining area we settled in.  I took the opportunity to check out the kitchen.  Very modest, a two propane fueled burners' a fridge and a big round table for prep. Needless to say they were busy, given 50 people just arrived.  They took one look at me, passed me a cloth, pointed to the stove top asked me if I wanted to help.   "No thanks", I would rather eat, I said as I scurry back to my seat.


Up first were some local olives and bread.  Second was a Charcuterie Plate, Iberian ham and local cheese washed down with a nice little Tempranillo from the region. I agreed to taste the wine.  They have a unique way to taste.
Didn't spill a drop!

 A potato pie is third.  It has a golden brown crust.  Surprisingly, the inside has the consistency of a potato salad.  Served at room temperature it is light and mellow tasting.  More wine, a bright semi dry white.  Perfect.   The fourth course was lightly floured and fried egg plant with locally produced sugar cane molasses drizzled over the top.  The fifth course looked and tasted like couscous... it was not.  The dish is called Migas.    It is a big deal here. Every Christmas there is a Migas festival in the main square of Torrox.  The whole village shows up to decide who makes it best. Main square below.



It is told that during the 17th century St Francis D'Assissi, a famous Pilgrim who chased miracles, was in Torrox.   While conducting his official duties celebrating the miracle of the fisherman saved from a sinking ship during a violent storm he was asked to be the celebrity judge at the Christmas Migas celebration.  Big mistake!

Saint Frank might have know a good miracle when he saw one, but coming from the north he had never tasted a good Migas! He chose poorly, the riot lasted for days... i made up that last part to keep it interesting.  LOL

Anyway back to the lunch.  The base of the dish is bread crumbs fried in extra virgin olive oil. There are many different versions of this dish.  The base remains the same.  Ours had fruits mixed in it.  It can be served with pork or beef or chicken as well.  Of course the big debate in the kitchen is which is best.  Best not to ask, we don't want another riot with this crew.


Course six was a soup.  Tasty but not unique, chicken with rice and veg.  Course seven Breaded pork meatballs in a saffron broth.  I am going to blow up! Course eight.  Fruit salad.  Thank God I wore my stretchy pants.

After the meal, coffee was served.  Then something really cool happened.  The crew of women and one young man started to sing.  They used serving plats as drums, their feet to stomp out the rhythm and their voices to share their joy.  The music was infectious. Soon we were all connected to the performance.  Joining in,  without knowing the words.  Johanne was in the middle of it.  Dancing with the chef adorned with a hat given as an invitation to join the group.    

A Magical end to a Magical day!

Be well.   

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Greetings from the bar. The best place to connect to the INTERNET!  That is my story and I am sticking to it.  We have had a few interesting adventures since my last post.  Now that the foot is more cooperative we are able to explore the nooks and crannies of Andalusia.  We started east on Monday  to find the smallest village in the province of Malaga called Archez.  Inhabitants 458.  We don't have a map. I Googled it, and fully committed the route to memory. No problem! Things were going according to plan, exit 274 off the A7,was the target.  Found it easily. Now it gets a little more tricky, I know it is up the mountain in front of us, but I completely forget where to go next.  Once again. I make no mention of this small detail to the navigator.  First rule of the road, fake it 'til you make it!

The absolute best way to demonstrate confidence that you are going in the right direction, is speed,  breakneck speed. Every guy reading this is nodding their head right now, and every woman is too, however not for the same reasons.... That is another story.  We see a sign for a village that we both remember seeing on Google.  Right turn, follow the signs.  Confidence is soaring, pedal to the floor..... life is good, until the paved road ends. Merde...... It looks like we are now on a dried out riverbed. Up ahead we spot a man jogging, he slows to a walk as we approach.  "Por favor? Donde esta Arches?" Johanne says through the window. The runner responds with blast of words with the cadence of a machine gun.  I try and look like I understand. Johanne, however, does understand at least most of his response. Rockstar!  Follow the trail, turn left in 100 meters and carry-on.  "Gracias!" We say.  "De Nada" says the runner.

A trail was being kind.  Anyway we did as directed, the trail became a road, followed by some encouraging road signs.  Confidence mounted, pedal down, we are on our way. Who needs a map!  The road is known as the Sun and Wine trail. Full of switchbacks and drop offs...... it is fun to drive and offers beautiful scenery.


After 20 minutes or so, we arrive in Archez.  To say this village was small was exceedingly accurate.  One street above the village, one below.  The former a single lane two way street with a stop light which, as far as we could tell, was set up on a timer that changed from stop to go every 5 minutes regardless of traffic.  We wait. No cars, trucks, donkeys or scooters pass.  Green we go and 30 seconds later we see the "thank for visiting Archez" sign.  We missed it.  U-turn...... wait at the light again! Proceed, try the low road.  Success.  A quick walk through the village pedestrian street.  There is not much to see, a church, a flour mill, from a time when the area produced significant grains.  Today it is part of wine and olive oil production for the DO Sierras DE Malaga denomination.  The only Andalusian region that produces reds, roses and whites. Tempranillo wines are my favorite from this area.  Closer to the Mediterranean, where we started, it is called the DO Malaga, best known for its sweet or fortified wines.

Anyway, back to Archez.  Pictures below.


As we were admiring this church above, a little old lady came out of a door just to the right of the church.  She was fashionably dressed all black head to toe.  She came over to us, waving a hand and speaking.  We thought she was extending an invitation to join her for a glass of wine in her home.  I am sure I heard wine.  She waved, pointed, spoke and smiled.  Her one tooth shining predominately in an otherwise vacant mouth.  I, for one don't really want to drink wine that could have anything to do with the cause of her dental work.  I turn to Johanne and say
" Run Forest Run".

Off to the next place on the trail.  Competa.  All I have to say regarding Competa is the streets are narrow.  I did not get the car wedged between two buildings, but it was close.  good thing the mirrors fold in.  Here is a shot of the village as we arrived.



We finished off the day in Torrox a village built on and around the ruins of a Roman town.  We found a nice little restaurant for a light Tapas lunch.

Later in the week we headed to the west, past Marbella to a beach front town called Estapona.
The Romans and the Moors both inhabited this area.  However there is not much left of these civilization's due to a massive seaquake which destroyed the town.  Today it is filled with typical Andalusian style.  The town was the original location chosen for Eurodisney, before losing out or winning depending on your perspective, to Paris.  Lots of fantastic food choices here.  We had a nice Tapas lunch and wandered the narrow town streets.  One thing of interest, each street in the historical village has its own unique colourful flowers and pots hanging from the walls.




Friday and Saturday included return visits to Benalmedena Pueblo and Malaga.  We love Malaga.  Unfortunately so to the pickpockets.  The one downside to Europe is the constant threat of being pick pocketed.  We toured the city with some friends. After a great day in the historic centre, we stopped at the market to pick up a few things.  It was vibrant, just like our last visit.  Somehow during the purchasing of strawberries from one of the many merchant stalls, it happened.  Our friend had her wallet taken.  No matter how vigilant you think you are, all it takes is one second of distraction and bingo it is gone.  While our friend reached to take the bag of strawberries, the thief was also reaching.... reaching into her closed fanny pack.  We were all standing right there and it still happened, so fast....... it is shocking.  No one noticed until our friend went to get more money to purchase something else.  It is a horrible feeling to be violated like that. A lesson to us all to be very aware when traveling abroad.

Next week will include a visit to a famous chef's home for a 9 course feast and some golf.  Food, history, wine, food, wine, food, golf gotta love retirement!

Ciao.  Be Well

Monday, March 17, 2014

Forgive me, It has been a week since my last confession. Well now that I have your attention, it has been a busy week.  Last Sunday evening we visited the happy hour here at the hotel.  Johanne and I were in the company of two couples from a small town near Brooks, Alberta.  Ranchers with great stories both from home and here in Spain. I noticed the PGA tour broadcast on the big screen. Curious as to what had transpired, I asked two guys sitting in front of our table if they knew what was happening?

They did.  We proceeded to talk about the tournament and golf in general.  The next thing I know I have been invited to join them for 3 days of golf.  They, having just arrived from Dublin, had a last minute cancellation from their 4rth player.  We played three great courses at the La Cala resort in Mijas.  Very enjoyable days with invitations for Johanne and I to join them in Dublin when we arrive there later this year.

The courses were tough mountain layouts with very narrow fairways Strong winds off the Mediterranean  made things more difficult.  My partner and I got off to a fast start winning the front 9.  The barbs throughout the days had all of us laughing as we played along.  Three rounds later one euro changed hands.

Some views from the courses.




Tuesday, Johanne and I loaded up the chair and headed toward Marbella.  Home of the rich and famous.  Marbella and neighbouring Puerto Banus claim bragging rights for the most international celebrities in the Costa Del Sol.  All the designer stores can be found on the golden mile boardwalk.  One side of the street is shops and restaurants the other side is a marina filled with mega yachts.  There is not a lot of room for a wheel chair as the sidewalk is very narrow to make room for the Ferrarri's, Rolls Royce's etc that parade down the one way street.  It was a nice day for a cruise.  Sadly we didn't have our deck shoes, otherwise I am sure we would have received an invitation. .......


Tuesday night we joined a group of 37 from Saskatoon at a great seafood restaurant nearby our hotel.  Beachfront location. Fish was fresh and delicious.  Wednesday and Thursday golf.

After golf, it was time to say goodbye to an old friend.  See below. Nice duck tape isn't it! Johanne was trying a new fashion statement.  Up to the hospital we go.  It was a very interesting place, animals on one side, people on the other. Shared waiting area.  Just kidding.  The place was modern and organized.

The wait was not very long.  Good bye cast. You didn't buy that story, I hope.  The speedy service part was true, all smiles and very professional.  Especially the part when they announced that it would be impossible to remove the cast without approval from the doctor back in Canada. We said fine thanks for the help and we will let you know once we have it.

FRUSTRATED back to the hotel we go.  After an Internet search it was decided....... that sucker is coming off!  We peeled it like a mummy coming unraveled.  Slowly but surely.  We got about half way and then our progress stopped dead.  Plan B.  Semi sharp knife, cut it in strips.  The patient hardly screamed, good thing, as we were on the balcony.  Somehow it would not look to good if she screamed while i am working her over with a 10 inch knife.  I would be in a Spanish Jail faster then a fat kid on a smartie.  5 minutes later it was done.  We  did have an audience, some guy three floors up just watched and let out a OLE when it came off.

The patient is doing great.  We are following the instructions given and demonstrated to us by a guest on our last trip in Portugal. She..... being a Phsyiotherapist.  A little more standing and walking each day to strengthen the muscles, some stretching and everything is good.  No pain, no swelling and a HAPPY CAMPER.  Who knew a shower could feel so good. We spent the weekend at the pool with a few side trips to some nearby villages for fun.  This week we will start to venture further abroad to see the sites.

Cheers.  Be well

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Sunday Morning.  The sun continues to shine.  It is great to wake up to the waves crashing.  yesterday we headed to Malaga,  sixth largest city in Spain.  It is remarkable what the prosperity of the early 2000's has done to this city.   We visited here 14 years ago.  It has improved considerably since then.  A major renovation of the port and the old city centre makes this place a must see.

Good luck parking.  We drove around the core several times with out success.   However, we were lucky enough to make a wrong turn and entered a part of the old town reserved for Taxi's, pedestrian's and the Communist Party's protest march.   We were stuck between the tourists circling the Alcazaba.  A fortress built in the 11 century, and still very well preserved, and the cafe diners enjoying a lunchtime tapas.

The looks were quiet interesting, given we are not supposed to be driving in this area. The parade of communists marched.  Then we saw the flashing blue lights of the cops.  Panic! Hide, Johanne says!  I listened, looking frantically from left to right for a spot to stick the car in order to avoid Malaga's finest.  No where to run, sitting ducks, about to get busted.  Needless to say it was about that time that I am thinking, I should have got the map.  I am not going to admit that out loud, of course.  I don't want the navigator to hear that, now do I?

Thankfully, the Communist Party march comes to the rescue.  Their horns blowing, drums beating, has the police fully engaged and they drive right by us.  We of course have slid down in our seats to avoid eye contact.  Success.  We tuck ourselves in behind the taxi and follow the march and the police.  Everything is going great until a tax behind us gets impatient and honks the horn.  Within 2 seconds the police are out of their seats, glaring at US.  We didn't do it, we look behind and shake our head try and look discussed. Who could be so stupid.   The procession starts moving again.  Police jump back in their van and move forward.  Saved by the communists again!

Here we are behind the parade.

 
Anyway we made our way without further trouble.   Found a parking area and ventured into the market.  Saturday is market day in Malaga.  We had a fantastic Tapas lunch right in the centre of the market.   The place was packed with locals, having a quick snack and a beer after shopping.  There are times when the wheelchair comes in handy.  They see you coming, and move to let you though.  That would never happen if we were both able bodied.  The crowd parts and we score a spot right in the front.  Beer and food ordered ,we are loving the energy of it.  Fresh shrimp with Paprika, lightly battered and fried Octopus with fresh squeezed lemon.  Delicious.

Check it out.


 



Market purchases complete we head toward the centre.  Beautiful architecture and very nicely restored.  After exploring for a while, we stopped for a coffee and desert at a cafe in the main plaza.  We got a great seat on the balcony of the second floor to watch the action.

Here are a few shots of the old town.




A great day.  The next week will include some golf, the removal of the cast and more Pueblo Blanco's to explore.


Ciao.  BeWell

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Greetings all.  Today we ventured up the mountain to a small Pueblo Blanco called Mijas.  It was sunny and warm on the beach.  That was not the case when we arrived in Mijas.  We were not prepared.  The wind was howling, the temperature dropped considerably.  I am not sure what the elevation change was but the temperature was at least 10 degrees less.  Still it is an amazing place.  The views of the Mediterranean are breathtaking.  One thing that is unique to Mijas is the taxi service.  Because the streets are so narrow and very steep, getting around can be a challenge.  The taxi service here consists of donkey drawn carts.  The donkeys actually have licence plates on their forehead.    20euros for a round trip through the village.



Since we had some time to kill and we had our own cart (wheel chair) and donkey (me)  I decided to get in on the taxi action.  Business was not too brisk given the windy cool weather so I put the cart in the taxi line and went for a coffee with the rest of the drivers.  The Wheel chair guard was not in good spirits when I returned.  Seems she didn't like the view.  LOL..  We did manage to see quite a few little streets on our visit.  One of the cool things is how the residents all hang blue pots outside their doors.  Check out the pictures below of the aformentioned taxi line up and the blue pots.



By the way this is what Johanne looked like after a few wild rides down some of the bigger hills.  No brakes on the wheel chair.

After leaving Mijas for warmer surroundings we both agreed that we will be back to explore this beautiful mountain village.  Time for a late lunch on the beach in Belanmedena.

Cheers.  Be well


Saturday, March 1, 2014

Ola from Benalmadena, Spain.  We have been here for  a few days now.  Here is the view from our suite.  Not Bad eh?

 
Getting here was an interesting adventure.  After sitting in the Priority Lounge for a few hours it was time to head for our gate.  In order to ensure that Johanne was fully awake for the next flight, I felt it necessary to test the ejector seat on the newly borrowed wheel chair.  The test was a smashing success.  I hit the button, in this case an unmarked step in the lounge and bingo Johanne rocketed out of the chair.  Who knew she could fly!  Why do we need a plane to get to Malaga.  The good news she landed beautifully, no damage to the broken foot or any other appendage .  The bad news she didn't like flying at all and made it clear to me that no further testing was to take place.  I helped her back into the rocket launcher and off we went to Gate 18.

By the way it was explained to us at the check in counter that the golf bag might not make the flight.  The plane was small, the luggage compartment as well as the flight, was full.  All 15 of us.  Just give me the 35 euros for the baggage charge she says, and we will let you know when you arrive it Malaga if the bag will arrive.  Customer service with a smile.  I wonder if this type of training is provided to all the Star Alliance airline partners.  I thought for a minute I was talking to Air Canada.  LOL

We get to the gate.  The same smiling customer service agent!  You need to come with us, she says.  So off we go.  into an awaiting van with two gentleman waiting to deposit Johanne and me in the plane.  It was a 10 minute drive through the bowels of the Lisbon airport to a small hanger at the far reaches of the airport.  Here is our aircraft, a Beechcraft we are told. Looks just like the float planes in the inner-habour in Vancouver.  Minus the floats of course.



We arrive, they are still fueling the plane, we wait.  The captain gives the all clear signal and Johanne is asked to hop to the steps of the plane, from there she is assisted by the Captain and the attendant up the 5 steps.  In the meantime I snap a few pictures.  Picture taking on the tarmac is not well received, I smile and quickly pocket the camera.  Clearly more happiness training required.  The good news, this boarding procedure allowed me to see my golf clubs being loaded!

Nice flight.

After a few days of RnR at the beach.  We ventured out to a Pueblo Blanco up the mountain from our hotel.  A steep 15 minute drive, but light years different architecturally.   Around our hotel it is a touristy beach resort. The Benalmandena Pueblo is old school Spain. Friday morning is market day.  You can buy everything from fruit to Berber carpets.  We parked and went for a cruise through the tented village.  We left with some farm fresh fruits and veg.

Off to the village square for a tapas lunch.



We eat at the restaurant you can see above.  It was packed with locals.  The noise was deafening.  We sat outside, enjoying the midday sun.  So here is how it works.  The tapas are displayed inside a glass case at the bar.   I followed the server, owner, bartender into the throngs of lunching locals.  Along the way I glance at what the locals are eating.  I figured, what they like would be the freshest.  Once at the bar, hand signals and head nodding exchanges confirm our order.  Three or four items chosen, dos cervezas requested and back to the table to see if it worked out.  It did! The tapas were fresh, lightly spiced and delicious.  The beer a perfect compliment to the dishes.  A mixed plate of Fish and Octopus, Chicken Wings, and a Tuna and Tomato salad.

There was a concert in the square.  Based on the players it seemed to be a mix of high school and adult musicians and dancers.  The lady above was one of the dancers.  She was glad to have her picture taken, her skirt matched the flower in her hair.  Very Spanish! The town's people looked very joyful and familiar to each other. They talked, laughed and ate.  Not many tourists here.  The village was high above the sea. You can see the Mediterranean in the background of the picture above.  There is a funicular that takes passengers from the beach area up to the mountain top. The town is about half way up.

There are many Pueblo Blanco's to visit in this region of Andalusia.  We hope to see many of them over the next 5-6 weeks.  Stay tuned.

Cheers and be well