Portugal-after many visits it is still teaching us new things

We arrived in the Algarve on  Oct 31 with the group. Dinner the first night with our friend and owner Vitor at Jardim Rustico, just up the street from our hotel, followed by a visit with Pat, a former St-Albert, Alberta resident, and owner of BJ's Canadian Bar.

The rains hit the following day.  Floods everywhere.  Crazy storms are following us.  First Cannes now the Algarve.  Old town Albufeira is badly damaged, it is quite the spectacle from up top, where the escalator is!  It will be months before things get back to normal.  Fortunately, the rest of the Algarve is intact and we can carry on with all our regular visits and activities.  There is something special about Portugal and the Algarve in particular.  Friendly, easy to navigate and reasonable prices make it a pleasant destination.  English is widely spoken which helps to make everyone comfortable.  The architecture is not as impressive as Spain or France.  It is old but not as much.  The earthquake of 1756 destroyed everything old but everything built after is authentic.....Good bones, slightly neglected, almost forgotten until you look closer.  It is then that you realize you are looking at a beauty without her makeup.  Plain, honest, solid.  Structures that have withstood times ravages, no longer in need of polish and shine.  The details are there, one just needs to look with a little more energy.  It is the suppleness that creates the interest of this area.  Juxtaposition is part of the character of the Algarve.  Old towns, surrounded by new tourist centres.  Five star luxury next to century old farm houses, both very much in full functioning display.  Our hotel is a perfect example of this duality.  A shiny modern facility, with three restaurants, two pools, and entertainment area, a Mercado and a spa.  It's neighbour is a small business selling firewood and home to the resident rooster, who's early morning singing is the bane of all the guests.  Some have offered a bounty to turn said rooster into tonight's Chicken Piri Piri special.

This will be another busy trip.  We have both the east and west Algarve to explore, a visit to a Cork factory, Jeep Safari, Wine tasting, a Cooking Class, visits to Fatima, Evora, Seville, Tangier, Gibraltar, Loule and Quarteira Markets, Vilamoura, A Fado dinner, golf days, a boat cruise and a Happy Hour every evening from  5-7.

All that in 3 weeks with 170 of our friends.

But first let's explore what we found in Madeira and the Azores.  Two islands in the Atlantic Ocean: one close to the mainland, one distant.  Madeira is a more cultured or defined island than the Azores.  Its closeness to the mainland provides an ideal getaway for tourism and it shows.  The main city of Funchal is flooded with waterfront hotels.  Sleek and modern to modest and historic, accommodation to fit any budget or style.  A wide variety of Culinary delights are on offer.  Since our arrival coincided with dinner,  we choose to sample the local fish, "peixe espada preto."  White and thick with a meaty delicate texture.  Please try it, but don't look at it before it is cooked...you might change your mind!  There is no way you can miss this fish.  It is proudly displayed in it's full glory at every market and most restaurants, fresh and complete.  The best way to demonstrate freshness.  Before meeting the fish monger's blade, the espada is long, silver or black, with large dinosaur eyes positioned parallel to each other on the side of it's head.  A fish head and an eel's body.  Not at all appealing.  However the taste is heavenly.  Generally grilled with a fine extra virgin olive oil a little salt and pepper.  It is "melt in your mouth" good.  Seafood and fish abound in this volcanic paradise.  We have only a few days here and lots to cover.  So I won't dwell on the food or the famous Madeira wine right now, we have an Island to discover.

The island rises out the sea quickly, nothing is flat so walking can be a workout. Thankfully our guide is driving today.  We are covering the north end of the island this morning.  Terraced gardens are everywhere.
The bounty includes a distinctive, Madeira banana.  Too small for wide distribution, it is, nonetheless, growing in abundance on the island and provides jobs.  Fruits, melons, and many different veg are also a staple of the agricultural economy.  Tourism, fishing and agriculture provide the commerce for the 270,000 people that call the island home.  The people here live a simple life, not financially wealthy but wealthy just the same.  One of the biggest agricultural contributor is dairy cattle.  As we venture up the narrow switchback road, the gardens are replaced by grass fed cattle.  The land is steep and green.  It rains often at the higher elevations.  The cows are lean, and eat well.  The milk that they produced is excellent and the pride of the island and the country.  Good milk equals good cheese.  I am sure we will be sampling some in the near future.  Rain showers filter out the sun as we ascend the mountain.  The landscape is as green and rich as the emerald island.  In between the cloud bursts, the sun is hot.  When you come to Madeira, you must be prepared for rain and sun many times throughout the day.  We are headed for an observation post at the peak of the Pico do Arieiro mountain range.  Soon the lush vegetation is replaced by grey and black rock formations.  It is a steep climb from sea level to the top of the second highest peak on the island, an elevation of 1818 metres.  360 degree views from the pinnacle are inspiring.  One direction offers a view of a reserve and lake area popular with campers or day hikers, the other direction the city of Funchal.  The cool thing up here is how quickly the view change.  Winds constantly blow clouds from the open Atlantic, only to be caught by the chiselled points of the mountains.  One minute you can see the valley floor ahead completely to the sea, the next the same area is blanked in a moist, thick fog.  More wind and the scene transforms again.  Rainbows are plentiful.

There are areas that are flat near the peaks  In addition to cattle grazing,  you can find two golf courses.  Santo da Serra Golf , a 27 hole complex that plays host to the Madeira Open, a European tour event.  Of course, Johanne insisted that we play, I had no choice but to agree.  LOL.  The layout was great and relatively flat considering it was semi mountainous.  The greens were excellent, the fairways were burnt out due mostly to a very dry summer.  The whole experience was complimented by an extremely pleasant clubhouse staff. The club offers a shuttle service from most of the major hotels to the course and reasonable rental rates for clubs.  Take the time to visit if you find yourself in Madeira, after all PGA tour calibre courses are always fun to test your game on.

If you have three or four days you can cover most of the sights that this island has to offer.

Madeira is famous for two things beyond the landscape.  Their sweet wine by the same name and as the birth place of the best soccer player in the world.  Ronaldo!!!

Azores

This paradise is situated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.  A short 4-5 hour flight from Montreal.  Different then  Madeiria.  Much more local, natural and smaller.  We arrived on a grey day, but our spirits were not deterred.  The place is just so pleasant. The capital,  Ponta Delgada, sits like a watchman, along the southwestern shore of the island.  A watchman, because it appears that the entire city is looking out to sea. Perhaps this is due to its history as a fishing village.  The anxious women, mothers, lovers, wives always awaiting the return of their men.  Would the sea be kind this time or will tragedy strike?

We arrived on the early morning flight from Lisbon some 900 miles to the east.  The weather is warm, a light breeze from the sourthern gulf stream pushing a dull rain cloud.  No rain, mother nature has not made up her mind yet.  The first thing you notice , is the natural similarity between Madeira and Azores.  They could be twins at least from far away.  The differences are man made.  Or in this case not man made. No touristy hotels or shopping areas.  No major crowds either.  Yes there are people but the pace is notably changed.  Not slow but not quick either.

We check into our hotel, the Marina Atlantico, ready to explore the village.  No map required.  The streets run parallel to the port, intersecting at the main square, where you will find....wait for it..... you guessed it,  a colonial era church.

One of many in the city/village/town...... the Portuguese are Catholic.  I don't know how to classify the place.  The streets are typical european, narrow.  Pride of ownership shows throughout.  The shops are opening, their storekeepers sweeping the sidewalks in anticipation of today's commerce.  Lots of restaurants to choose from.  Yes it is true my stomach is my guide, and lately it is definitely out in front, pointing the way.  LOL.

It is easy to like this place.  It feels lived in, old but not desheveled.  We  will be back later to make a more complete exploration as we have an appointment with Evarristo Melo of Big Blue Adventures to begin our education of all things Azores.

 The coast line is rugged and natural.  Once we leave Ponta Delgada the roads get narrower and the traffic become sporatic. Agriculture and dairy farms dominate the land.  Small fishing villages capture the sea.              

Like Madeira, the island rises sharply from the sea.  Near the top of the island sits the village of Furnas.  Home to several volcanic thermal pools, comfortably warm and inviting.  Make sure you bring your trunks, as this is one adventure you really must try.  

 The warm waters flow naturally into these pools.   The rocky pool walls have a silky cinnamon coloured coating from years of the hot sulfureous water bouncing off the crevasses.  Be prepared to get slightly stained by the rocks as you enjoy the therapy of the waters.  Don't worry about the stains, the pool has showers to rinse off after your dip.  We enjoyed our soak in the rain which made the experience doubly fun.

Above is the large thermal pool in the botanical gardens.  The waters muddy appearance is directly attributed to the high iron content.

 A little further up the mountain, we stopped to inspect our lunch.  Not the local fowl, they seemed keen on what the food truck had cooking.  LOL.  We were having ours cooked in pots placed in deep holes dug into the ground where volcanic steam slowly heats the mixure to perfection.  6-8 hours later it is done.

Known as Cozido das Furnas, this hearty stew combines everything except the kitchen sink.  Chicken, beef shoulder, pork shanks, bacon, pork ribs, potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, cabbage, kale, blood pudding sausage, chorizo and yams.  Each ingredient is placed in the pot in a time honoured order.  The liquid or broth created comes from the combination of the ingredients.  The result is a mellow tender comfort meal that is accompanied with crusty Portuguese bread and a nice wine from Alentejo. Yummy.  Seconds are welcomed.

 They also produce the last remaining tea plantations on the island.  For five generations Gorreana Tea has been producing Black and Green tea using ancient method.

 The  island is a huge producer of pineapples.  Grown uniquely in greenhouses, to ensure the temperature remains constant, this fruit thrives in the rich volcanic soil.  It takes two years to grow a pineapple and surprisingly the greenhouse must be filled with smoke during the flowering stages of the fruit's development.  The unusual method of  smoking provides the fertilizer and helps to pollenate the flower.          

There are many hikes throughout the island, many offering spectacular views of the sea and the volcanic lakes.  

 Our guide even managed   to take us to an artisanal pottery shop.  Using local clay, we see the ladies mold the material, hand paint and finish the pieces in the kilns housed on site.  This visit was an unexpected bonus.

 Back in Ponta Delgada, we visited the local market....the cheese shop was amazing. Of course no visit would be complete without a meal or two.  The restaurant below is called Casa Marisca.  Fish is the specialty.  Fresh fish, the best kind.  The restaurant is typical Portuguese, understated, spotless, and busy.  We managed to get a seat on the second floor of the long narrow space.  Everything was perfect.  The pate, olives and cheese to start, the grilled fish and veg to follow, a nice crisp  white wine from the Duro region.  Huge portions at small prices.  So GOOD!!!

We also were treated to a special dinner at Restaurante Sao Pedro.  When we arrived our host, who was also the owner, treated us to a menu of his best dishes.  Fish soup, grilled fish, fresh veg.  Highly recommended.  We loved the Azores!!!!!!!!!!!

After our visit to the island it was time to head to the Algarve and our 170 guests.  As I mentioned at the beginning of this long overdue post.... our time in Albuferia is crazy busy.          

For those that have been with us you know what I mean.  For those who haven't been there yet, we will be there again in Nov 2016. Join us you will never forget it.