We arrived late and got up early, we don't want to be late twice in a day. La Rochelle is a port city with a rich 1,000 year history. Nicknamed the "rebel city" it was democratic ahead of it's time... Protestant when the rest of France was Catholic, protected by Kings while the country suffered from over- taxation. It was the first place in France to hold elections for a mayor in 1187. A free port from the early 1100's, it became the most important port on the Atlantic coast and remained that way through the 16th century. It certainly is important to many Canadians. This port launched the ships that contained the early french inhabitants sent to the new world of lower Canada. Johanne's ancestor's likely sailed from this very port. In fact, one of her family member's had shared details regarding her family's past. It turns out that the Dion's are directly connected to the first wave of French settlers to arrive in what is now the Belle Province of Quebec.
With this information in mind, we began an extensive hunt through the streets of La Rochelle looking for some long lost relative. We started at the port, surrounded by cafes, we patrolled up and down the patio's. It was early so there weren't many people around. None of them knew any Dion's. Believe me we asked...Pardon monsieur, connaissez-vous des familles nommees Dion? I point at Johanne and say they look like her...most of them started running, or quickly ducked back into the cafe to hide.
We looked here, nothing.
Nothing here. This street was a bar filled sailor hangout during the towns rugged past. Apparently, the area was locked up with huge chains each night to keep the drunken sailors inside the walled area. Today the wall is now a road but you can still see signs of the chains on the small side streets. I am sure some of Johanne's relatives were locked up, maybe that is what got them to Canada...running from a gambling debt or the law?
We went to the local market. No sign of any relatives. The food was really good so it wasn't a waste of time. We even got to sample some Pineau Des Charentes. A sweet, fortified wine that is native to the Charentes region. Legend has it that this liquor was created by mistake. It seems that a wine grower in 1589, mistakenly poured grape must into a barrel of Cognac. A few years later, he discovered the barrel and upon tasting the contents a new drink was created.
The taste varied from sweet to dry, I preferred the latter. It was not really something I would run for but interesting to try something new. Given the number of tastings we (...OK mostly me.....) have done I am astonished to find something I have never had before.
You gotta love France, a wine seller and degustation right in the middle of the food market. We ate our way around the stalls. Everyone wants you to try something that makes their offering unique.
We stopped off at a small restaurant for a coffee, having decided that we were not going to find any of Johanne's decendants here. We did however, strike up a very interesting conversation with the restaurant owner. The conversation covered local history, French politics, food, as well as answering his questions regarding Canada. A refreshing way to learn new things, about the wonders of France and share a little of Canada at the same time. It is time to continue our journey to the Loire Valley and the magnificent Chateaux. For the record, Johanne's ancestors were from Paris.......he was named Louis Hebert, was an apothicaire (pharmacist) probably looking for new medicinal herbs to cure diseases. It is very likely they sailed for Canada from La Rochelle. I was just kidding about the search! He was the first settler to arrive in New France with his family (wife Marie Rollet and 3 chidren). The 2 boys were killed by the Iroquois and the daughter survived......She married the Marquis de Guyon (changed to Dion over tthe centuries).......
Driving east on the A10 toward Tours. We have a little more than 2 hours to kill before we get to the extraordinary Chateaux of the Valley of the Kings. This area is a 280 kms stretch along the Loire River about 2 hours from Paris by car. Often called the Cradle of the French and the garden of France. The latter due to its plentiful vineyards, fruit orchards, artichokes and asparagus fields lining the banks of the river. Asparagus, a personal favourite of mine, is grown throughout Europe and the UK. This veg can actually be traced back to the Roman times and there is a recipe for cooking it in the oldest known cookbook of all time. Apicius's third century AD"|, De re Coquinereia" cook book! I wonder if they wrapped theirs in bacon? Anyway we are not here to talk about veg. This is the postal code you would have wanted if you were in the kings court during the renaissance. The French Kings started building magnificient Chateaux and the court followed. There are no less than 300 examples of pure luxury living at its height. We visited a few starting with Chateaux d'Amboise where we had the misfortune of another wine tasting. I hate it when that happens...but one must be open to new things. LOL Here is a shot of the Chateau from the banks of the Loire River. The village was built around it, mostly behind the view you see here.
These steps are on the opposite side of the Loire River view of the Chateau. You can enter the castle from here. On the right you can catch a glimpse of the town. Below these steps is a wine cave. Showing off some of the great vintages of the Loire Valley, we just had to go. The wines from this area are world famous and include several regions from the Muscadet on the Atlantic coast to Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, just south east of OrLeans, fruity and crisp flavours abound. One of our favourite white wines is Pouilly Fume. Try it, you will love it. Back to the Chateaux
In addition to the fabulous Chateau and medieval village, Leonardo di Vinci spent his final days here at Chateau du Clos Luce. Modest compared to the larger Chateaux of the region, it is still impressive and worth the visit. Especially when you consider the genius that lived there.
The biggest Chateau is called Chateau de Chambord, seen below. Breathtaking is one way to describe this behemoth. It is absolutely reckless in terms of the extraordinary wealth that was required to build this place. No wonder there was a French revolution. This palace is....huge to say the least. Granted Versailles is more luxurious, still this is not to far behind.
Rumor has it that Da Vinci designed the castle for King Francis I. The king wanted it as a hunting lodge. It was only used for a few weeks a year as it was to impractical to use it more than that. The rooms were to large and the ceilings to tall to heat. The hunting parties would visit bringing everything they needed including furniture. Some 2000 people would be part of the party. The palace remained vacant many times during its history. Finally the French government took ownership in the 1930's. Now fully renovated and maintained, it is an excellent example of the period.
Chateau Chenonceau above. Two names are attached to this beauty. Diane de Poitiers and Catherine Di Medici. OK three names....King Henry II. King Francis I took control of this castle for unpaid taxes... he offered it to Henry II. Henry on becoming King after Francis' death gave it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers.
Diane ruled the place for many years spending lavishly to build gardens and additions to the palace. When poor old Henry died, his widow, Catherine Di Medici kicked Diane out. Forcing her to move to the Chateau Chaumont which was still pretty good.
Catherine went all out to make the Chateau de Chenonceau her own. Spending even more money then Diane. It is reputed to be the first place to hold a fireworks display
in France way back in the year 1560 in celebration of her son becoming king.
There are many stories attached to the 300 Chateaux in this region. When you combine the history with the wine it is one of those regions not to be missed. Most of the Chateaux have interesting villages attached to them which only added to the opportunities to explore. You can spend a great deal of time in this region and never run out of things to do. We completed the speed visit version on this trip, we know we will be back. We have a train to catch. Gotta go.
Rouen is our last stop before the train. Fatty liver, tripe, apple snails, bread seafood, fish, cheese, cider, honey, jams, fudge all locally made and all available all the time. They even host a two day festival called "Belly Days" named after the old market often called the "belly" of Rouen. I, for one, am happy to go to any town rejoicing the belly! Where do I show mine to get invited? The tourist office doesn't understand the question...in either language. Turns out the Belly Day is later in the month, we will have have to be happy with Joan of Arc and lunch.
The city is home to some amazing cathedrals. The most impressive of which is Notre Dame of Rouen. Built in the Gothic style, what really stands out is the spectacular stained glass windows. The colours just radiate when the sun shines through them. What is equally amazing is that they are original. Having survived all of history including two world wars. During WWII, the windows were actually removed and hidden for safe keeping. The town was bombed extensively but thankfully, the cathedral and its beautiful windows survived.
Not far from the cathedral is the gate to the old town and the market. Back in the 1431 a major historic event happened in this market. A gruesome act by today's standards. The burning of a 19 year old woman by the name of Joan of Arc.
Today a cross marks the spot where Joan took her last breath. I won't go into the story as it is well documented, but needless to say she was an impressive woman for any era, not just hers.
No trip to Normandy would be complete without food. We stopped for lunch at the red Norman style building above. Delicious. An example of the previously mentioned stain glass windows below.
We spend the rest of the day wondering the small streets, an activity that has become standard procedure in our tour in France. Rouen was a pleasant surprise, filled with history, and great food. Stop there if you can should you visit this area. We have an appointment with a train, and as you know, they do leave on time so we had hit to the trail.
Arriving in Calais in the rain. It is as if the weather man wants us to be prepared for what lies ahead. It poured...all the way to Dover. The tunnel itself is a very efficient and quick way to travel from France to the UK. About 25 minutes under water and ground and 45 minutes later, we are in England. Again I am reminding myself to drive on the left. Drive on the left. Drive... well it just sneaks up on you. Bidding France adieu we head to Manchester to return the car.
Our next adventure is back in France on the Riviera, where Johanne and I, OK mostly Johanne, will be leading a tour. Come and join us there.
Be Well
Cheers!
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