Paris Day 2: This morning, we learn that the stores and restaurants opening hours are completely left to the discretion of the employees.....we planned on having an EggMcMuffin for breakfast however, after waiting 10 minutes at the front door, with a small crowd of other hungry Parisians, an employee finally acknowledges us.  "She says that they won't open for another 20 minutes."  We point out the hours of operation sign on the window which indicates a 9.30 opening.  She responds with, "that is wrong, we just haven't got around to changing it, go down the street 5 minutes there is another store that is open, Merci".  That's what we did.  Whenever in Europe, McDonald's is also a great spot for clean toilets. With all the glitz, wealth and savoir-faire of Paris, there are still many bars and restaurant with "the Turkish loo"...a hole in the ground with 2 little porcelain footholds on either side! Ready, aim, fire! Don't flush til your feet are clear! It's unpleasant and not very hygienic...an a hazard specially if you're a girl!

So this morning, we are off to Montmartre as a start. The metro drops us off very close but the hike to the top is quite a wake up call for early morning. The view over Paris is magnificent and the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur, even though not very old (1870's) has grandiose mosaic interiors. Utrillo is the painter that eternalized the site through his art.

 Next to it is the Place du Tertre. Many famous painters lived there...Utrillo, Renoir and Toulouse-Lautrec, among others. It has a vineyard sloping down on the other side of Paris. Today, it is more of a tourist trap with souvenirs and the remaining "so called artists" are more into portrait for quick cash. Johanne and I had been to a very cool fondue restaurant in this area during our last visit here.

It is opens only for dinner now. It has a very long table where you have to climb over the table to get to your seat. They served 3 fondues, cheese, beef and chocolate, and all the wine you can drink.  One catch, you must drink it from a baby bottle... the seating arrangements guarantee a social eating environment. Our table partners were a bunch of European students, who spoke some English.  I still laugh when I think about it.  When in Mortmartre, this place is a must.   We didn't get to relive that experience,  however, we had a very nice meal, on the 2nd story of a local restaurant. The staff was very attentive and polite.

And yes....Nice Parisians exist as much as rude ones.  Several times, commuters offered their seats on the metro, apologize for bumping into you....most waiters are very pleasant and helpful and many of the younger ones speak English...there are still a few of  the opposite kind though....taking Johanne's lead we just smile and let them mumble.

France gets 70 million visitors a year, of that Paris gets 27 million of them!  In essence, more then the entire population of the country visits each year.  That is a staggering amount of people...so be patient...you might feel the same if your city was invaded so completely.  Parisians are also bad drivers, the worst in Europe. At the Arc de Triomphe, an accident is always 50-50 for who is responsible.....it just says that they are all bad drivers so why try to establish the guilt of one in particular!

As we proceeded down the hill from Montmartre back to the Seine, we pass through Pigalle...the red light district of Paris...a seedy site, full of sex shops and prostitutes. Nicknamed "Pig Alley" it was the famous or infamous hangout  of the GI's in WW2. We avoided the worst parts of it all together this time....stopping to take a picture of the famous Moulin Rouge.

The French are very liberal when it comes to nudity , specially regarding breasts.... which is not a bad thing. LOL. The beaches are full of topless sunbathers and the key to a good french film is to make sure you show breasts whenever the director want to create suspense, liven up a scene or add intrigue. Pigalle is actually part of the total scene...no big deal!  From there, our walk takes us on to La Place Vendome.  This is the area of the rich and famous, home to the Ritz and many other of the worlds finest hotels.  If designer shopping is your thing than bring your platinum card as virtually every major brand is present as well as all the french ones.  Sadly, the entire area was under renovation.

Next stop, the Opera Garnier (1875), strangely it was built over an underground lake. This beautiful building was the inspiration for Leroux's Phantom of the Opera.  It is considered the most famous Opera house in the world.  Named after it's architect it is an impressive building, both inside and out.  Tours of the facility are available each day and well worth the time.

The Grand Foyer



The auditorium, built in an Italian horseshoe style, can seat 1979 people, its stage, the largest in Europe, can accommodate 450 artists.

Something interesting, the building has a beehive on the roof.  The honey is sold in the opera gift shop, which is also worth a visit.

The day is starting to take its toll, again we have walked miles.  With that in mind, we head to the metro.  Johanne and I decide to make one last stop in St. Germain-des-Pres and the Quarter Latin to reminisce from our last trip in that area.  Mom and Dad head back to the hotel for a well deserved rest.

Saint-Germain-des-Pres is an area of the 6th arrondissement of Paris, located around the church of the former Abbey of the same name.  Home to a number of famous cafes, such as Les Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore, (see pictures below) the area was the centre of the existentialist movement associated with Jean-Paul Sarter and Simone de Beauvoir.  These intellectuals along with many writers and artists, including Hemingway, James Joyce, Camus and Picasso could be found sipping wine and sharing stories in both of these establishments.  Today it is mostly tourists... maybe a budding writer or two (Ecole des Beaux-Arts sits right there), you just never know. One of the area main feature is the Jardins and Palace du Luxembourg, where Johanne and I used to go almost every day, our first time in Paris together....Our hotel was right across the street.

 We walked the area, until the sky's opened up.  Luckily, we were able to get a seat in a cafe shielded from the deluge.  Drinks ordered, we waited out the storm.  Hearing us speaking English, two women seated at the next table started a conversation with us.  One was American, the other Canadian.  They had just arrived from London for a few days of sightseeing. The next thing we know, Johanne is providing them with a detailed itinerary of what they could accomplish during their three day visit to Paris.  The conversation got very detailed. By the end, the two women were practically begging Johanne to be their tour guide, offering to pay a tidy sum to accompany them. Everyone was laughing.  What a great way to wait out the storm.

 As fast as it started, it was over.  The sun returned, we wished our new friends good luck and headed back towards the metro.  Along the way we found this interesting street filled with cafes, and people.  One cafe called to us, Raclette cheese and fondue clearly presented on their daily menu board.

We had to have it. Great food, a nice bottle of wine, interesting views.  We walked back bordering the Latin Quarters, named because of La Sorbonne students speaking Latin in the old days. This area is the inspiration for Puccini "La Boheme" opera.  The Pantheon, resting place of all the french intellectuals like Hudo, Zola, Voltaire etc.... is just down the street. We have eaten there many times on previous trips to Rue Mouffard, full of inexpensive eateries with bohemian lifestyles.
A fantastic end to our time in Paris.  Tomorrow, we have a 7 hour drive to Provence, in the south of France, to begin our exploration of the French countryside.

Be Well

Sante