Tuesday, July 22, 2014


The day started with a leisurely drive along the coast toward south London.  Several
 small towns with extraordinary history were laid out in front of us, inviting a visit.  We chose Whistable, home to a mighty fleet of fishing vessels and more importantly one of seven named oyster areas in the world.  We, having had our share of oysters in the past, felt compelled to stop to research the claim.  

Pulling into the lot on the eastern side of town, it is hard to ignore the blemished state of this honest working town.  The buildings have a majestic architecture.  The nobility is there but age has not been kind.  The wealth of this seaside village has moved to greener pastures.  The Oyster beds during the early 1900's lost their productivity, due to pollution, disease, bad weather and underinvestment.  The industry suffered until 1970.  The Whistable Oyster Fish Company combined with a resurgence of the Oyster stocks has rejuvenated the business.  




We had the pleasure of meeting a true Whistable character.  GOM was the name scratched in fading red ink on the top of his white plastic bib.  He introduces himself as GOM.  His rough salty fisherman look is soon dismissed when you look into his kind eyes and ready smile. GOM shares with us that he has been fishing and shucking Oysters in this market for 50 years and at 82, he is the second oldest fisherman still active in the area.  "By the way my real name is Ray, GOM is the youngsters attempt at humor", he tells us.  The SOB's call me the Grumpy Old Man or GOM for short.  On first blush you could see how the nickname would be accurate.  Once you talk to him for a few minutes you find out how far from the true it is.  Ray talked to us about the harvest of Whistable Oysters, from the weak stocks to the plentiful bounty they now enjoy.  The stalls sell 6 oysters for 3 pounds, shucked while you wait.  Ray, without asking, shucks a few for us.  He watches as we shower the freshly opened morsels with lemon and slurp them down. Ray smiles and announces that these are on the house, since we ate them the proper way.  No fancy sauces or other trendy new world additions to hid the taste.  What a taste!  a slight hint of the sea combined with slippery goodness.  These may be the best we have ever had.  We thanked Ray for his hospitality and made our way back to the car.  Good start to the day.  


Downtown Whistable.  Nice!  We bypassed London and headed for Audley Manor near the village of Saffron Walden.  This manor is impressive.  The National Trust that manages this palace, has staged the rooms as if the owners were still presiding over it.
After spending an hour, we headed into the village.  Saffron Waldon is widely known for its 300 plus timber framed Tudor houses.  They are well preserved and are boldly painted.  Some of them are very crooked, it is amazing that they remain standing.





We spend the night in a village called Sudbury.... not a single feature that would compare this UK village to Sudbury Ont.  This one's former glory was as a wool producer and weaving centre.  It was also the childhood home of  Thomas Gainsborough, a famous British portrait and landscape painter.  His picture and his home is seen below.

After a night at the pub, we are up early and ready for the day.  We really did spend the entire night at the pub.  We slept there.  In England, staying at Inn's is a great solution.  They are relatively inexpensive, friendly and of course there is a the added benefit of food and drink at the ready, without the risk of having to drive after.  Just keep in mind that you must take the time to view the rooms before taking the plunge as not all Inns are up to a proper standard. (English technical term).

Cambridge was our morning target.  Here we are standing in front of Trinity College upon our arrival.  Unfortunately, the stuffy guards posted out front would not allow us to enter.  They are preparing for a student party, marking the end of the semester.  We tried to negotiate our way in..telling stories about our blog reader's shattered dreams or our desire to send our children to the college thus needing to inspect the site, as any parent would want.  The navy suited, no smile, no pulse guards simply said...NO.  Go away... which we did.  Around the corner to the service entrance where we slipped behind enemy lines and toured the place anyway.  You should have seen there faces when we walked out the door past them once our investigation was completed....Priceless!


Beautiful view of the canal surrounding the university.  An awesome way to see the sights.



Our timing was excellent when it came to visiting Jesus College. Seen above and below.  We happened to arrive just as a Trio of young and talented women were about to start their lunchtime concert.  We settled down inside the main rectory of the church and enjoyed a spectacular display of musical talent.

After the concert, we had a late lunch at Jamie Oliver's restaurant.  The food was interesting and tasteful, but a little light on the portions and expensive.  Not a do over.  Too bad, really, as I like Jamie Oliver's style of cooking. Our server knew only one sentence when speaking with Johanne...."but of course Madam" and then dismiss what she asked for! Strange dude!  

Cambridge is such a delightful city, it is hard to leave, however we have a schedule to keep and places to see.  So we are off to the Peak district.

Be well

Cheerio

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